Fuses


I’ve read of views on whether amp fuses impart any sound quality or coloring. I had a recent experience that has made me re-think my views (fuses do not affect sound) and wondered if others had a similar experience. 
I have a Line Magnetic integrated amp. After heavy regular use for over 5 years, one day it just wouldn’t power up. After checking the power supply, I assumed it must be a blown fuse. I recalled that Line Magnetic sent with the amp two replacement fuses of the same type/quality that was pre-installed. I dug out one of them from storage, replaced the fuse and the amp powered up normally. 

What surprised and delighted me was the change in sound with the replacement fuse. Fuller bass, more detail and more warmth. I have rolled the tubes several times in the amp, and am attuned to the subtle changes that can make. Popping in a fresh fuse seems to have had a similar affect. And these appear to be cheap fuses, available for a few dollars at most. I don’t think I understand any of this. 
bmcbrad
The best fuse is no fuse, we already know this, but most equipment does not allow for the installation of breakers (and breakers also have their issues)

This is not a breaker it takes the place of the fuse with a solid brass rod (No fuse then). just like bypassing the fuse altogether. Best you can get by your views for a couple of dollars🤦‍♂️
https://ibb.co/KqV3hNb
@millercarbon  what is your opinion on bypassing crossover capacitors?

I can't take George seriously anymore, would love an answer from someone that has actually tried the stuff they are talking about. 

I am thinking of bypassing a tweeter cap with a .01uf Duelund Silver foil cast. 
That'll work great. The way I think of it, the reason the better caps are better is they are exceptionally smooth and consistent in the way they charge and discharge. This allows them to pass a signal that is both detailed and extremely liquid smooth at the same time. Where lesser caps sort of spark in quantum steps instead of a smooth curve. Large caps of high quality that can do this are very expensive. But they can deliver this smooth fast response across all kinds of dynamic demands. The little filter or bypass cap like you are talking can't do much for the larger swings. But most of what we hear in fine detail is very micro-dynamic swings that the little cap can handle. So in effect the bypass cap gives you the detail you need to make the fine stuff sound a lot better and as long as the big cap "below" is pretty good quality you wind up with a lot of the Deulund big cap sound for a lot less money.

I used this in my crossovers using Deulund CuTn to bypass Jantzen Alumen Z, which are quite good caps but not Deulund level, but with the Deulund bypass they get darn close for a lot less money.

I don't have time or money to painstakingly burn in and compare all these different caps so I go by the info on sites like the home made hifi cap comparison. Worked great for me so that is what I recommend, unless you have someone better to go by.
Thank you for the reply. @millercarbon 
I have some Mundorfs Silver in oil on my tweeters, so I should stick with Duelund Silver foils? Or maybe add a bit more color and go with Tinned copper?
I have tried bypassing with. 1uf caps, teflons, and Duelund Copper foils on the mids, didn’t work out that well to be honest.
But from what I gather .01uf is the best value to go with, no matter the value of the crossover.


Told you already, any one that says it a good idea, has no idea.

By-passing powersupply or voltage rail caps is a good idea, but it’s not a good idea to bypass caps that are in the signal path as they will have different time constants, and smear at frequencies where they are both doing work.
Alway use the best quality "single cap" in the signal path.

Cheers George