Subwoofer Decisions - REL/Rythmik, Pair/Single, Paper/Aluminum Driver, etc.


I have decided to upgrade my subwoofers. I have a 15x12 room with an open side wall that I use for 2 channel and HT. Two channel music performance is the priority. We don’t listen to either very loud or need the room to shake. I am considering the REL S/510 and the Rythmik F12, F12G, FM8, L22 and E22. I have an all Linn vintage system. My speakers are Aktiv by installing special crossover cards in the 5 channel Class V amp. It outputs to the speakers in a bi-wire configuration. If I used a high level speaker connection I guess I would have to tie into the speaker wires connected to the Bass/Mid card.

Any thoughts on Rythmik v REL? You seem to get a lot more for your money with Rythmik and they also offer more options - finish, sizes, configurations, etc. Supporting a Texas based business is also nice. Do they offer equal or better quality and performance? There seem to be many fans that think so.

Any thoughts on Rythmik’s paper v aluminum drivers? The owner says that the aluminum driver retains its shape faster and is more detailed. He recommended the aluminum in my system over the paper even for 2 channel. The paper is lighter and has better extension above 80Hz. I’ve also heard that it is better at low volumes because it easier to move. My current subs have paper drivers and paper seems to be greatly preferred in the audiophile community.

Any thoughts on pair v single sub in my size room? One 10 or 12 is probably enough to pressurize the room but will a pair of dual 8 or 12’s make everything easier and better? Is there a point where they will overwhelm the room?

Things are pretty tight in my room so the smaller footprint of the vertically stacked FM8 and L22/E22 are appealing. Also stacked drivers look badass right? The FM8 with its dual 8 inch drivers will probably be faster than the larger 10 and 12 models. It also appears to go plenty low enough to keep up for basic HT needs. The L22/E22 have a smaller footprint than the single driver F12 but I’m concerned that those might be overkill.

High level speaker connection? REL recommends it. Rythmik offers it but recommends using other methods. Anyone know if using it with a Class V amp and tying it only to the bass/mid speaker output will perform well? I’m not sure how REL implements its filters to make this work. Is the high level connection really better in performance?

Thanks for the help.
128x128snatex
Yes TB!
I've owned subs from Rel- the Stadium III and S/3, Rythmik F12G and SVS SB3000. I had the Rythmik and SVS together and think the Rythmik is the better but couldn't identify one over the other consistently in a blind test. The nice feature with he SVS is being able to control all the settings with an app. It allows me to play around with the volume and frequency during certain songs or movies. Adds a fun factor, one of the reasons I enjoy audio. The grill on the SVS is a horror show, looks like Darth Vaders helmet. 

   
I have three subs in a room with a ceiling that is 6'5" high. It's a very difficult room. What allowed me to manage the bass with the Rythmik's adjustable phase. The left Rythmik is set at 270; the right Rythmik is set at 30. The REL is further away and set at 0. I could never accomplish what I did without the adjustable phase. Take a look at my system, the first picture and see what it's made possible. https://systems.audiogon.com/systems/9064
That’s a good example hilde45 of being within 7db from 100Hz down to 20Hz. So my question is, would the cost justify the purchase of another sub to flatten out that 5db peak? That’s assuming it could be flattened.
It would be interesting to see the phase and group delay on your screen shot. I only say this because of how you’ve set the variable phase on the Rythmik subs.
Thanks, golfnutz. Actually, it's within 5 db. In a room where I had very very awful problems!

It wouldn't be worth buying another sub, yet — from what I read, if one is within 5 db they should count their coins and leave the betting table.

I will try to amend the photo with some details, but they're really only relevant to my room.

Also: I will move to another room within a year, I think, so it's not clear yet what that room will require.