QUESTION about Installing "Matched" Tubes


Hey folks,

I have Conrad Johnson Premier 12 monoblock tube amps, 140W/side. And I’m replacing the old 6550 output tubes.It’s 4 6550 tubes per monoblock.


I usually just replace the tubes with whatever CJ recommends a the time. But this time I splurged for Svetlana Winged C NOS tubes. I bought two pairs of matched quads.


My question is: How do I go about placing them in the amps? Is it required, or best, to put each matched quad in each amp? Or does it matter which monoblock all the tubes go in?


I’m asking because at the moment I’m not sure which tubes are actually matched. They were measured before shipping, with the Plate Current and Transconductance number’s written on each tube. But frankly, not being an electronics guy, I don’t really know what they mean and how it helps me match the tubes, if they do.


So for instance, there are numbers on each tube:



46.8/4740
42.2/4410

41.4/4870
38.8/3970

42.8/4830
39.5/4470
41.3/4810

41.9/4770

Do I, for instance, try to find the 4 tubes in which the Plate Current numbers are closest in value? Or the Transconductance number?


NOTE: My CJ amp allows for user biasing of each 6550 output tube!


Thanks for any info!
prof
Hi oldhvymec.   (And others...thank you!)



Yeah, I was wary of that one number being extra high.  That comes from a replacement tube.   I'd bought two matched quads, but one tube turned out to be bad, and I guess that's the best replacement the proprietor could find.


Another thing:  I'm surprised at the nature of the change in sound this brought to my amp. 



Up until how I'd stuck with whatever CJ recommended at the time, which 6 years ago where the modern Tungsol 6550s.   So that's what I'd used until recently.  I started hearing creeping grain/distortion in my system and figured it was likely tubes.   I've had the CJ Premier 12s since the late 90's and never replaced the small input tubes either!   So I figured it was time just in case.  The original were GE tubes, one 5751
two 6FQ7 per amp.


I ordered the Svetlana Winged C 6550 NOS tubes, and wanted to try tube rolling for the input tubes.   Bought these:


5751 super low noise:


http://www.tubeaudiostore.com/57suplownois.html


And these Mazda 6CG7 / 6FQ7:


https://upscaleaudio.com/products/mazda-6cg7-6fq7


My research on the Svetlana Winged C 6550 NOS tubes suggested they had a rep as a linear-sounding tube, tight bass etc, not overly tubey.Which I was kind of going for.


The results have been, first off, a total lack of distortion and grain, so that problem was fixed.  Utterly gorgeous, smooth, velvet texture and tone.


BUT...an increase in the "tubey-quality" - the bass is less defined, bigger, a bit woolier, less air on top, a teeny bit thinner upper midrange.  And most of all a mellowing of dynamics, punch and density.  In effect it now sounds more like a slightly underpowered tube amp - gorgeous in tone, but lacking some drive and aliveness.   That part is a bummer.


So I'm wondering if it's the 6550s or the input tubes changing this character.    I've heard input tubes can change an amp even more than the bigger output tubes.


Thoughts?  (Anyone?)





I would think a curve tracer would be better for matching tubes, but I'm just guessing.


Well.   My amp just blew.

Sudden loud sound, distortion then silence.   Slight burning smell from amp.   Same amp as the one tube that went bad that I had replaced.


That didn't last long.

Sigh...
You might want to get the amp checked out. A bad cap maybe?Time to get them both serviced if that's the case:-/
IME the small tubes "flavor" the sound, the power tubes have the most effect on the drive and bass punch.

Yeah, I'm going to have to take the amp in to the local shop now.
BTW, the sudden loud ripping distortion then silence, amp no longer on, burning smell....does that sound like a fuse?
Would a tube dying suddenly cause that and if so would the tube look obviously burnt or anything?