Is my anti-skating too strong.

The best way to set up is use the advice from ZuAudio as I have been into Audio Since the 60's. They have info on their site and I have to tell you it really works great. I was fed misinformation for a long time but this company nails it the improvement is astounding. For Anti Skate you first must get a blank record around 30 bucks. after you do all the recommended procedures set the arm in the middle of where your grooves would be and when it neither goes in or out you will have perfect alignment and also of great importance is getting your Vertical Tracking Alignment as to make it Orthogonally correct.

This will make your table sound clean as a Bean.

@lewm, I discussed the problem with my brother the mad scientist (MIT PhD) When you play a blank record the stylus leaves a visible scratch mark in it's path. The pressure on the very tip of the stylus is so high that it is actually digging into the vinyl so the friction equation no longer applies. It would be more appropriate to call it "drag" on the stylus which would have to be measured in order to compare it to the frictional pull on the stylus under normal conditions. The "drag" on the stylus is obviously higher since it requires more antiskating force to hold the tonearm steady.

My pal had a Grace badged Rega Planar 2, a Grace F9, and a Grace 747 arm.  In the info he had, Grace said to look at the cantilever as the record plays, then to adjust the anti-skate to make the cantilever stay as straight as possible.  This makes perfect sense, and allows for different settings for records, with varying amounts of info to be fine tuned.  I tries it on his Grace and my two arms, and it does work out very well.

Yes, if you had anti-skate engaged that could do what you describe, and the advice to disable for all arm adjustments, and make anti-skate the last is correct.  But experiment, that is the best way to learn.  Learn how to tell when you have over- or under- compensated by arm behavior and by sound.