https://www.hifi-advice.com/blog/review/analog-reviews/amplifier-reviews/line-magnetic-part5/
The two chassis LM-845 Premium.
Reasonable price too!
The two chassis LM-845 Premium.
Reasonable price too!
https://www.hifi-advice.com/blog/review/analog-reviews/amplifier-reviews/line-magnetic-part5/ The two chassis LM-845 Premium. Reasonable price too! |
Just FYI, all single ended tube amplifiers, large or small, run in pure Class A, and some. When pushed, they will run in Class A2- if the power tube grid becomes positive and draws grid current. Designing a pure Class A tube amplifier is not only possible, but also very cost effective at well under $6K. IMHO. Best wishes, Aric |
I don’t think it really matters whether the amp is tubed or class A design. What really matters, is that you pick an amp that is designed well and will give you the sound you’re looking for. Some very well made amps will have a clean, detailed sound and other will lean on the very musical side. Ultimately, you would want an amp that matches well with your system and gives a magical, musical experience. I have 5 amps sitting on my floor at the moment in which I frequently rotate in an out. I like the sound each one gives and I have a log book I use to keep track of which speakers, speaker cables, power cords sound best on each amp. This consist of, a 50watt class A SS, 100watt EL34 tube amp, 22watt 300b amp, 18watt 300b mono amps and 9watt 300b mono amps. Each of these amps are very special and give a glorious sound. Point is, stick with an excellent class A SS or tube design and you’ll be fine. |
My Schiit Vidar amp (according to what I read about it) is class A/B and it's supposed to be class A at lower volume levels and switches to AB at higher volume so if most of your listening is at lower volume I don't think you need a class A amp. I'm pretty sure any A/B amp will accomplish the same thing. |