Looking for Help with Speaker Jumper Cable Choice

Right. And your choice of flux. Which isn't required but when you use it and see how sweet it is.... 
If yours is like the photo on-line a couple screws and the terminal mounting plate pulls out. Look around inside. Often times the crossover is zip tied to a piece of MDF. There should be enough slack for the stock wire to reach. Or if not then to move the crossover enough to reach. Then, not that this is necessary but as long as you're in there, if it is the normal choke and cap strapped to MDF then its pretty easy to improve by putting the crossover board on cones. Or whatever. The crossover sits inside the highest vibration environment in all of audio. Just about anything you do will be an improvement!

Soldering it like this will be a lot better than any jumper you could buy. Heck you could even solder the speaker cable directly, plug the hole and set the whole terminal plate aside for in case you eventually want to sell the speakers.

Here's my observations. I’ve been playing with speaker jumpers the past three weeks. My speaker cables are quite good – Von Gaylord Chinchilla.

Pulling the brass jumpers, I tried three different jumpers. I also tried all the various jumper configurations. Jumpering up from the bass terminals was the best in my system

The three jumpers (all bananas) were: simple Supra Classic 1.6 , Wireworld Platinum Eclipse, and Duelund tinned copper (12 ga-Acoustic BBQ). My observations are the jumper will cause the speaker to sound similar to like the speaker cable used was the jumper only. Or heavily weighted that way. So, in other words, if I put in the Supra jumper, the system sounds much like I used the Supra wire as the speaker cable.

The WW Platinum Eclipse and the Duelund jumpers were clearly better in regards to accuracy and imaging. The Supra tends to bass heavy and lower resolution. The WW probably beats the Duelund by a bit in all regards, but they are pretty close. I haven’t critically listened yet. These are just my quick observations. For the money, the Duelunds are probably a bargain.

This is just what I hear in my system. Based on my observations, I would tend to think jumper as good or better than the base speaker cable should be used.

What this shows is even a short length of wire is enough to impart its character on the signal. That's why I recommended soldering to eliminate the jumper. Otherwise even a short jumper can change the sound from what you know you like to.... who knows what.

AQ Type 4 is actually a pretty good cable (better than Type 2) and should be a good choice as a jumper. The solid core LGC copper, foamed polyethylene insulation, star-quad geometry, and aggregate 15.5 awg gauge (when connected with one larger and one smaller wire to each polarity), should work just fine for what is essentially a 6-inch speaker cable.

I suggest varying how you have them connected and listening for differences to determine which you prefer. If your main SCs are connected to the LF posts with jumpers connecting to the HF posts, then try it the other way around with the main SCs connected to the HF posts and jumpers to the LF posts. Some folks report improvements by cross-connecting the main SCs with the positive SC connected to the positive HF post and the negative SC connected to the negative LF post and then connecting the jumpers. However you connect them, I doubt you will hear much (if any) improvement when comparing other speaker cable jumpers with the AQ Type 4.

High Fidelity level 2 jumpers replaced my  Transparent Reference xl jumpers.