Go Active Crossover or Upgrade existing XOs?

From your question it's obvious that you don't have the technical skills to start from scratch using any kind of active crossovers. To get it right is a complex process even for an experienced person, my recommendation is to leave it alone and save yourself time, money and frustration! 

From your question it's obvious that you don't have the technical skills to start from scratch using any kind of active crossovers. To get it right is a complex process even for an experienced person, my recommendation is to leave it alone and save yourself time, money and frustration!

Give the guy a break, will you!  He may actually know more than you.

Listen fellas, its not just a river in Egypt, okay?

Still waiting to hear, if its so great, why all the world’s greatest cost no object systems aren’t doing it?

I mean, its not like there’s some vast audiophile industrial complex conspiracy to... Oh wait, what’s this?

There has been a long running conspiracy to prevent blah blah yada yada

Gadios, 

My experience: I've gone active and very happy. In my experience, given a certain (limited) budget, I've gotten better sound by optimizing: focus on an audiophile PC as sole front end, run digital crossovers, a multichannel DAC, keep my tube amp for mids/treble, and a cheap Hypex UcD amp for mid bass and Rythmik subs for lowest frequencies. The tradeoff: steep learning curve, VERY involved vs just plugging an amp to speakers with passive xo. The biggest trick is building your own active speakers and selling your existing speakers with the expensive passive xo. 

I suggest you do a lot of reading before deciding. Search in computeraudiophile a couple of articles named Acourate walkthrough, and advanced Acourate (or something along the lines) to learn how digital active xo could be implemented. 

I hope this helps. 

I had bi-amped my JBL 4333’s which were originally designed with a bi-amp crossover (though I had built my own crossover using Nelson Pass design for mid/hi and used a Rane active to separate the low frequencies for my woofer). I used vintage amps with solid-state MAC 1750 on bottom and Dynaco tube on top. I thought it sounded good until my tube top end went out and I thought it was cheaper to just finish the passive crossover for the woofer Than repair my Dynaco. Wow!  So much better with just the Mac powering everything. 
Granted, I was using less-than-state-of-the-art equipment and I bet it would have sounded great if I had the flexibility to try multiple amps top and bottom until I found the perfect combo. But that would be a lot of money and a lot of experimentation. 
If you’ve got the time and money, it can be fun to tweak, but for me, simplifying by getting rid of all the unnecessary hardware in the signal path gave me a much better sound. And Nelson Pass designs a pretty good passive crossover too. 🤓