Need some help soldering Binding posts.

"Use PLENTY of HEAT - we use TWO 35W soldering irons when soldering binding posts - and +1 to the comment above - there should first be a very solid electrical connection then apply solder to make it stick."

As I mentioned in my initial post per Cardas, I now use a 300 watt soldering iron with some flux paste in the binding post where the wire will lay. I can assure you that it is a night and day difference in both how the solder acts and it also results in a higher fidelity sound. I believe that this is why readers should not jump to a conclusion right away that results in them simply parroting what they have read before in other posts.

Use PLENTY of HEAT - we use TWO 35W soldering irons when soldering binding posts

+1 or use a 50w-100w iron.

Cheers George

UPDATE: Sonic Craft has recently told me that they always loop the hookup wire through the little hole in the tip of the Cardas binding post before soldering. So, I apologize to those whom I disparaged. 

However, Sonic Craft still commands that a 250 watt+ soldering iron be used. I can verify that the post heats up so quickly with that wattage iron that within a matter of perhaps 30 seconds the solder literally flows even more quickly than water. Just use enough to hold the connection. Do not fill up the tube with solder as I think it deadens the sound and I know for certain that doing so wastes a ton of solder. Additionally, I would say after having filled up 18 Cardas binding posts with solder (7.2 system with passive subwoofers) while using a 60 watt iron, installing them all to the speakers, then uninstalling them, heating the posts, dumping the solder, and then re-soldering using a 250 watt iron after laying down some extra flux and just enough solder to solidly hold the connection, that the improvement in sound quality is amazing.

The rule in my day as a tech were to make the connection physically sound, and then solder. Do not use solder as a glue.

Don’t forget to prepare the mating surface of the binding post before soldering by lightly sanding or wire-brushing. This, as well as a modest amount of rosin flux (never use acid flux) will ensure the solder “wets” correctly. This provides as close to a molecular bond as possible. And yes, wrap the wire firmly around the post, or double fold it over if inserting in a tube before soldering. This will give you the required mechanical integrity that is necessary for long term reliability. A good soldering iron or station with the correct (1/8” or larger) tip should be sufficient to heat the post and wire. My preference is the Weller WTCPS or WESD50.