I run the positive on the top and the negative on the bottom.
Each system will be different.
Each system will be different.
I can't believe there's an audible difference between connecting your cables to the HF or LF or postive on top and negative on bottom. We're talking about a 2 inch bridge that's the equivalent of better than a 10 gauge wire. The only way you might hear a difference is if you use 50 gauge wire. I don't mean to be so harsh, but I think there are more tangible "weak links" to focus on.
I think it was HifiChoice in the UK a couple of years ago did some true scientific measuring of biwire vs. non-biwire (assuming decent jumpers) and found no measurable difference whatsoever anywhere and concluded that it made no difference sonically. I have tried biwire vs non-biwire, and single wire tops, bottoms and diagonally in two of my systems (one of which has been described as a "must biwire for best results" type deal) and cannot tell the difference.
Others swear it makes a difference. Who knows.
It seems hard to believe, but the driver(s)fed from where you directly connect your single speaker cable (+ & -) will sound noticeably better than the driver(s) fed from jumper connections.
The best solution (as others have mentioned)is a cross type of connection, i.e. connect your positive wire to the positive HIGH terminal and the negative wire to the LOW negative terminal. Then use the jumpers to tie the two positives together and two negatives together.
If you are a non-believer do the experiment yourself. Just try connecting your wire to the HIGH terminals of your speaker and jumpering down to the LOW. Now listen to your system; the tweeter (and midrange in the case of a three-way) will sound clearer and more articulate than the bass portion of the speaker. Now reverse things and make the direct connection to the LOW terminals and jumpering up. The highs will sound softer and a bit blurred, while the bass will be better defined and articulate. Last, use the cross method described above and listen again. Their will no longer be a disparity of sound between the top and bottom of the speaker. You will have better balanced sound, but not what you would get with proper biwiring. You have just averaged the loss across the whole speaker.
This happens on every speaker I have ever tried, even when I have made very high quality pure silver jumpers.
As I recently wrote on another thread dedicated to this question as it applies to the tri-wire-capable Mordaunt-Short Performance 6, I tried single-wiring to both the top and bottom posts (using the stock brass jumper bars), and found the overall sound of high-energy, bass-heavy material at high volumes was better when connecting directly to the woofer posts (as instructed in the manual). Wiring first to the woofers gave improved macro-dynamics, upper-bass definition, lower-bass weight, stage depth, and better-integrated bass in general. I didn't notice any significant reduction in treble or midrange purity when jumpering to those drivers, although as implied, the balance and presentation of the upper ranges did change a bit in relation to the bass at least. But the hard rock music I used didn't place a premium on fine subtlety. I have yet to repeat the experiment using more sensitive, less current-demanding acoustic material at lower volumes, and also haven't tried the cross-wiring method (or, in this case, simply wiring to the midranges first). But these results do suggest that the upper-post recommendation might be subject to qualification, depending on the preferred type of listening material and volume, and possibly especially with triple-post (double-jumper) designs.