Questions to J.A. Michell turntable owners...

Hi, I have a Gyrodec mk1 but I have applied all the upgrades so even the pin (inverted) is the last version.

For cleaning I lift the plate and then all the brass sleeve and clean very well with a clean rag all the oil, being very careful not to lose the bearing ball.

Mobil oil is the one suggested by the manufacturer in the absence of the original; it has to be completely synthetic and the exact density value I do not remember now.
In 30 years that I own the record player I used both the original and Mobil and there are no differences.

I change it every 5 years or so, but I check once a year that there is always a few drops in the container. 
You could replace it once in 10 years or more, but being easy to maintain does not take much time to check.

Not being a car engine with high revolutions of rotation but only a turntable that rotates at low rpm would not serve to change it practically ever but for scruple a little check every now and then is fine.

I have owned Michell tables since the seventies and with my first Gyro around 84 . I have owned a couple DC units after that original AC motor unit including the current SE I sold a couple years back. Now have my second Orbe SE, the first with AC motor and now with current DC motor/controller.


I change the oil every year. Not a recommendation , merely a service I choose to do to keep them performing new and "clean". I repaired tables in a past life so I take it as a very inexpensive opportunity to tune it up when removing the platter to thoroughly clean the residue around the perimeter, built up from the belts contact. If I don’t have the Michell oil at hand , Mobil synthetic 0W40 is what is recommended. It has no additives that are used to bond and fill micro scratches in cylinder walls for engines. The rifling in the bronze bearing is how the oil climbs from the well to the ball above.

Doing it yearly when the belt residue is cleaned just makes sense to do as it also puts the ball back at a new point of contact instead of 5 years of wear on a single point. The residue left on the platter/pulley is more detrimental to drag/speed and belt wear and should be done to all belt drives routinely/yearly. The oil can be left but for how little time and cost it takes why do a half arse job. Its a good opportunity to clean the table thoroughly of any dust and keeping it looking as new as well as performing as such and checking all layers for level and checking/ fine tuning suspension. Contrary to the false claims mostly by OCD individuals , The Gyro and Orbe are very easy to set the suspension and get the proper bounce , and they stay that way till moved or manipulated.

Thank you to both members for such a succinct and detailed reply! 

I am currently on a 4 year bearing cleaning/oiling plan and will bump that down to a 2 year schedule, at the minimum.

It is my understanding that the small ball bearing at the bottom of the hydrodynamic bearing is only a 'catch bearing', and comes into use only when the platter spools down to zero RPM.  The bronze bearing shaft rests on the small ball bearing, thus maintaining the proper oil reservoir level.  The instructions I received with my table are vague on this subject.

I had not considered 'build up' from the 'O' Ring belt drive onto the platter itself.  

What detailed method do you utilize to clean the platter drive belt grooves? 

The platter has a (unknown type of ) black coating on it and I would not want to remove it with harsh chemicals or over aggressive  'scrubbing'.

Once again,  thanks for the great feedback.......That is what makes this such a great site!!