Speaker spike feet?


I recently acquired a nice older hifi system with Aerial Acoustics 7B tower speakers.I am not an audiophile. The speakers have heavy iron bases on them but there are no feet of any sort on these bases. I emailed the owner/designer at Aerial and he sent me a schematic of the bases which show that they originally had spike feet. He said he could provide the spikes at minimal cost. I was afraid to ask what minimal meant since I seem to remember that these bases cost $400 when new. (I'm still getting accustomed to what things cost in the audiophile world.)

I am wondering if I really need the spikes. These speakers sit on a carpeted floor with hardwood on typical joist construction floor. They sound quite good to me but if spikes would help in any way and I can get them cheap then I will do so.

I'll ask Aerial how much theirs cost but I'm pretty sure that stainless steel tripod (for photography) spikes will fit the 3/8-16 threads in these bases. The cost would be about $40 for those. Maybe the actual Aerial ones wouldn't cost any more but they are longer and look very sharp which makes me wonder about floor/carpet damage since these speakers weigh around 110 pounds each.
n80
..an interesting observation.....all cones sound different.  I have aluminum, steel, hard plastic, hard rubber, copper, wood ......the best were brass, but even different brass ones sounded different.
N80:

I just received some Revel Studio2's and I am in midst of fiddling,  and read your question on spikes........

Mine speakers are sitting on carpet( floor above basement) with the polymer footers.
I think spiking is a bunch of " hooey", And according to others ( it should)- thin the bass a bit and tightens the base resolution

I just spiked the feet.......
Holy cow, bass tightened and the emotive force really went up, it's like adding more bass drivers
And the bass was good to start with

I would have never expected

Why?
maybe it's like hitting a squishy pillow vs hitting a solid wall

I suggest you give it a try

jeff
Check out some of Jim Smith’s threads, book, or even dvd for help in this  issue.
I'm definitely going to try something. Look forward to seeing if the voodoo is real. ;-)
Spikes must pierce the carpet. Position without the spikes and then set once satisfied with location.

Spike geometry, as long as they are sufficiently robust for 100lb speakers, is largely marketing hype / bias confirmation.

Be aware that very sharp spikes will 'eat' into all but the most robust flooring.

Any discontinuity in the flooring such as warp, knots, heart vs sap wood, etc. can cause imbalance. Therefore, adjustment capability is a necessity.