Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.



It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10
ptts:
Thanks for your suggestion re: the Cardas formula. Unfortunately, in my small, dedicated listening space, George’s formula, aesthetically and practically-speaking, are not viable.

RE: treating the room. Fortunately, I already have two columns of ASC traps which reach almost to my 8’ ceilings, and I will proceed from there- using DIY absorption panels and window drapes. In spite of wall-to-wall carpeting, my system seems excessively bright. I’m running seriously good tube gear and Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor M speakers.

I’ve archived and printed  Dave’s info regarding his DIY panels. Thank you sir.

If I have in any way derailed this thread, please accept my apologies. It surely was not my intention.

You guys are great to hang with.  Thank you gentlemen.

Sincerely,
Paul
Hi Dave:

Power cords are fixed.  When I had my MFA tube gear significantly updated by Scott Frankland, he suggested to me that my money would be much better spent on capacitors, etc, rather than experimenting with power cords.

He replaced the original power cords with some very heavy duty stuff.   Cables include Grover Huffman IC's and speaker wires.  And, most recently, I've been experimenting with DIY 12awg magnet wire , some 10 awg Belden wire for speaker cables, a vintage pair of MIT 750 music hose,  as well as "cult faves" vintage Western Electric 16 awg mated with Belden microphone cable for IC's.  I've tried silver IC's but they don't work well in my current system.

I've yet to settle on a favorite combo, being more concerned with optimizing the position of the SF Cremona Auditor M's.  Those speakers are quite revealing in my system and in my room.  If anything I'm hearing "too much" detail.  :)

I have a 20 amp dedicated power line.

I hung some curtains today which made an immediate improvement in overall smoothness of HF. Proper room treatment seems to be the most important thing I can do at this point.  And I will.  :)

Kind regards,
Paul

The dummy got a brain!

When I noticed the left channel, right channel disparity, it was over two years ago. First I corrected it by simply turning the left volume higher. Not satisfied with that, I went through a year of trouble shooting to find nothing wrong, but I still had the same problem.

After discussing it on this thread, it became apparent that it was room acoustics, and the solution must be to install sound absorbing panels on the right side of the room.

Just an hour ago, while I was trying to verify the cause of the problem, I removed the drapes from the patio door that make up the left side of the room; perfect balance. Why didn't I see that before? Although that's perfect balance, it's too hard, and I still have to install a panel on the right side of the room, because  who wants to be exposed at night.

My point is, all I had to do in the beginning, was to remove the drapes in order to verify the problem and the solution.


Enjoy the music.
Hi o,

The best solutions are free ones, even if they are self-deprecating.

I would first have tried leaving the drapes up (glass is almost always the enemy of good sound so all of my windows in my listening room are blocked off with drywall) and experimenting with DIY acoustical damping on the opposite wall to see how that sounded.

If you (and your wife, for predictably different reasons) are happy with removing the drapes, then problem solved!

Best to you o,
Dave