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Class "A" sound, as related to Stereophile.


It's all about the sound.

It's all about sound, not how much it cost; when I got into "high end", I knew right off the bat I couldn't afford it, but I had to find one thing for sure; how do the various components sound in regard to Stereophile's classes, or ratings? In order to know this; I had to acquire the ability to identify "Stereophile's" class "A" class "B" and class "C" sounds, and the only way to do that was: first, subscribe to Stereophile, and next was to go to every high end audio salon within driving distance; there were 5 well stocked "high end" salons within driving distance. (Since I didn't take my wife, that created some problems)

After a few years of subscribing to Stereophile, plus auditioning equipment that Stereophile recommended, I knew the sound of those recommendations, and I absolutely concurred with them; "If you want to hear the music, you got to pay the piper". While that's true, it's possible to get class "A" sound with class "B" bucks or less.

At this moment, I am looking at 8 capacitors that cost $25 dollars each, plus 2 mono blocks with an instant resale value of 6K. Once I take the covers off and go in with my soldering iron, these mono blocks are worth a resell of O; my mission must be a success. After a successful mission, the resell is still 0; but those mono blocks will deliver class "A" or "A"+ sound, and that's some sweet music.

I have to visualize and hear music in my head before I can modify a component to deliver class "A" sound; but that's the only way for me to get what has become a necessity.

The pressure someone is under when they modify, is great, but the rewards are glorious. On these mono blocks, they are too small for the huge capacitors, therefore I have to figure a way to make the case larger. My reward is "sound" with absolutely no relation to money. I often wander if someone with a fat bankroll can identify the sound, or only how much they paid for each piece.


Happy listening.

orpheus10

Showing 6 responses by ps

ps
744 posts
 
Is there a list of qualities that outlines for a listener / review reader how to somehow identify in real world terms, the critical differences between a "class A" and "class B" speaker? All variables aside?

Many years ago I heard a pair of very expensive speakers in an audio salon in NoCal, which were so dynamic and detailed that they proved to be oppressive. I literally got seasick and dizzy listening to them. Came close to puking, actually.

I’ve been starting to think that with audio, once you’ve attainted a certain level of gear, music, and listening sophistication, "less is more." Unless, perhaps, you’re into Metal or other headbanger music. Or simply a masochist.
ps
744 posts
 
Dave:
Thank you for your response to my questions. I’ve been at this hobby for many years. One of the greatest joys (besides the music of course) is that I keep learning. One of the biggest variables that I’ve neglected to some extent, is the room itself. For example, and in retrospect, all the fiddling with cables I've done was not the most effective way to spend my time and money. :)

This is a very enjoyable/educational thread- thanks to all who have contributed.
Paul
ps
744 posts
 
Will one of you erudite people please start that other thread titled "room treatments?" :)

I’m reconfiguring my dedicated listening space and finally, after years of procrastination, am finally ready to do more than place a couple of tube traps in the corners of the front wall. :)

I'm sure I'm not alone when I say I'm eager to learn!


ps
744 posts
 
ptts:
Thanks for your suggestion re: the Cardas formula. Unfortunately, in my small, dedicated listening space, George’s formula, aesthetically and practically-speaking, are not viable.

RE: treating the room. Fortunately, I already have two columns of ASC traps which reach almost to my 8’ ceilings, and I will proceed from there- using DIY absorption panels and window drapes. In spite of wall-to-wall carpeting, my system seems excessively bright. I’m running seriously good tube gear and Sonus Faber Cremona Auditor M speakers.

I’ve archived and printed  Dave’s info regarding his DIY panels. Thank you sir.

If I have in any way derailed this thread, please accept my apologies. It surely was not my intention.

You guys are great to hang with.  Thank you gentlemen.

Sincerely,
Paul
ps
744 posts
 
Hi Dave:

Power cords are fixed.  When I had my MFA tube gear significantly updated by Scott Frankland, he suggested to me that my money would be much better spent on capacitors, etc, rather than experimenting with power cords.

He replaced the original power cords with some very heavy duty stuff.   Cables include Grover Huffman IC's and speaker wires.  And, most recently, I've been experimenting with DIY 12awg magnet wire , some 10 awg Belden wire for speaker cables, a vintage pair of MIT 750 music hose,  as well as "cult faves" vintage Western Electric 16 awg mated with Belden microphone cable for IC's.  I've tried silver IC's but they don't work well in my current system.

I've yet to settle on a favorite combo, being more concerned with optimizing the position of the SF Cremona Auditor M's.  Those speakers are quite revealing in my system and in my room.  If anything I'm hearing "too much" detail.  :)

I have a 20 amp dedicated power line.

I hung some curtains today which made an immediate improvement in overall smoothness of HF. Proper room treatment seems to be the most important thing I can do at this point.  And I will.  :)

Kind regards,
Paul
ps
744 posts
 
This is one of the best threads ever! Thanks to all.
I'm quite fortunate to have a dedicated listening space and a wife who has no problem with my audio obsession. I've become fascinated with the subject of DIY room treatment and am learning a lot as I experiment.  Talk about great ROI.  :)

Best wishes,
Paul
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