Best Way to Spend ~ $2000 for System Improvement


Hi fellow music lovers! I have about $2000 right now to improve my system. It can be for any component, but I'm thinking amplification first, power, pre, or integrated. SS or tube.

To begin, right now I have a Mccormack 0.5 Deluxe power amp with "A" revisions, an Eva 2 passive preamp, Metrum Octave v1 DAC, Dell laptop for music files. Sometimes I use a Teac H750 as a transport and GMA Pico Executive speakers. The room is small, about 14x18x10ft. I listen to about 50/50 rock and classical, mostly full orchestral. As far as just sound goes, I would like the bass to be "fast". No delay or overhang, not exaggerated, but detailed. Detail is important at any frequency, the more the better, but not at the expense of musicality. I realize at this price point, compromise is necessary, and treble would be the best place for that. No harshness allowed, but I'm in my later 50s now and don't hear treble like I once did.

I hope I've given enough info to get some good suggestions. I like the sound now, but think it could be better, maybe a slightly lower noise floor and a little more pace and rhythm while retaining it's sweetness and smoothness. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. BTW, if any existing question answers any part of this question, feel free to link it.
xrayz
There is a lot of disagreement on this site, but I still say that an amp with a high damping factor has tighter bass. Check out the match between Audire Forte and B&W DM 16 omn the site listed below.

I have tried a lot of amps, including giant Classes, and these speakers require a lot of control, i.e. they need the amp to stop as well as start them.

I use the woofers as subs for my 803's, at least on loud rock.  
Whoops:    http://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/1243132-hall-fame-audio-equipment.html

I am not suggesting anything except that a high damping factor gives tighter bass.

The 350 wpc Classe does not compare with my 125 wpc Forte, and all other Audires after the Forte (which followed the Model 1 and 2, Crescendos, and Forte) are even better, and have even higher damping factors. 
@lowrider57  Those prices are really good, especially since my circuit breaker is exactly under the stereo. I always wanted dedicated circuits to see if I could hear a difference in the sound. If I may ask, is Romex generally recommended? Also, is there anything else I should tell the electrician? I mean, I doubt the average electrician knows much about sound. Or is everything I need to know already in the A'gon  discussion files? @passet02  Do you have any specific ones you like? I could always use recommendations! @srosenberg  I'd love to try a Modwright, I've always heard great things about his equipment! Pass too! There's a lot I'd like to try, maybe even older vintage Threshold. Also, my speaker manufacturer uses Atma-Sphere electronics at CES they go so well together. @almarg  I meant to respond before- I do use coaxial to connect with both my pc and cd transport. My octave v1 has no usb input. In your opinion, even if the impedance matching is not a problem, would a better usb/spdif converter go a long way toward solving the perceived lack of dynamics? I've only ever used this one, and I know a lot of people consider them to be one of the most important components, paying a huge amount of money for their own.              
@xrayz, You're right about the average electrician, they don't understand the complexities of power in an audio system. Mine said he knew all about home theater and not to worry. He was competent, but in the end his installation was not optimal for a HiFi system. Read the thread I started asking for advise on proper installation for audio...
https://forum.audiogon.com/discussions/dedicated-line-advise

Romex is a manufacturer, but the important thing is to use the same cable design; copper, 3 conductor, solid (not stranded) wire.
@danvignau  I remember so many of the components listed! Out of the amps, which do you think are the "fastest"?