Glue and screw 5/8 plywood on the bottom of every other pair of floor joists. Turns them into box beams.
Treating Floor in New Construction - Reducing Footfall and Vibration
Looking for some good ideas/solutions to treating my new dedicated music room's floor. The room will be fairly large at 22w x 29L, built on the main floor of the new house with a basement below. My current room is in my basement with concrete floors so footfall is never an issue.
I have asked the engineering firm to give me some recommendations on making the floor stronger structure wise; not sure what they will suggest, maybe floor joist on more narrow centers, say 12 inch vs 16.
Have you tackled this issue? What about mass loaded vinyl (MLV); would a layer of heavy vinyl between the OSB floor boards and carpet pad help? Use two layers of OSB flooring and glue them together? Ideas?
I have asked the engineering firm to give me some recommendations on making the floor stronger structure wise; not sure what they will suggest, maybe floor joist on more narrow centers, say 12 inch vs 16.
Have you tackled this issue? What about mass loaded vinyl (MLV); would a layer of heavy vinyl between the OSB floor boards and carpet pad help? Use two layers of OSB flooring and glue them together? Ideas?
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Dweller with a 30x30 room the listening position might have been located in a "NULL zone" - was the poor bass performance the same all over the room. Without any acoustic treatments you should get hotspots and cold spots for bass Also - I have found the distance between the speakers and the amount of toe-in can either impact or augment bass performance considerably. Regards... |
My room is over the garage. Fortunately the garage is quite high so I was able to strengthen the music room floor by running two 10in deep joists under and perpendicular to the existing joists. I laid a very dense sound deadening material http://www.customaudiodesigns.co.uk/tecsound-acoustic-membrane.htm plus a thin insulating layer over the existing chipboard floor with an engineered wood floor on top. Works really well no movement in the floor and no bass emphasis from the floor even with 2 big subs. |
Interesting question where my experience may help. You mentioned footfall and vibration.(Flex is also important) Mass and rigidity are the factors. Your decision must consider the "plywood" thickness used throughout the adjoining areas;and the depth of finish flooring in those areas.(There's nothing worse than irregular flooring-and I've seen it in luxury penthouses : ( ... --The heaviest thickest plywood is best;glued and screwed (don't consider even 'ring' nails) " carefully" installed (i.e. supervised,we do not want a any rushing on this) --I prefer 3/4 inch "Marine Grade" -you're research (check out Homestead Marine) will tell you why-- 'T&G (tongue and groove) plywood with high quality adhesive on every inch of every stud -- that retains some flexibility. Check out PL400,PL Premium, Titebond,Sika & 3M products with your builder/carpenter. I like bldr to be involved in the choice in any excellent product they like to use;they're pro's and 'pro's have preferences'. I like your carpet (over heavy rubber underlay) with wood floor at the speaker area;it would be my choice (my speakers weigh >450+ lbs each). --Regarding the framing or joist spacing I would be comfortable with 16 inch spacing - with carefully installed "blocking" between the joists. I will be using 'tight' fitting insulation batts of either used cotton or Roxul Rock wool soundproofing type - carefully installed right up to the floor above (I would go to the extreme of using spray glue for permanent adherence to the floor). Your carpenter should fasten (screw) at 4" along the joints and perimeter and 8 inches elsewhere. I would have all joints glued as well to eliminate 'voids'. Note re joists. 2x thickness gives double strength and rigidity "depth" " " " & 4 x rigidity..... Gotta go but welcome your questions. Pete |
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