Will dedicated power lines eliminate ground loops

The short answer is: not necessarily. Try to minimize the number of dedicated circuits. Ground loop hum probability increases with each grounded power cord you plug into different outlets on different circuits. Sounds counter-intuitive, but one circuit for all your gear gives the greatest possibility of eliminating ground loops. That's because all of your grounded plugs terminate at the same point in the circuit - preventing ground planes from being created.

If you plug each component into its own dedicated circuit, you now have multiple circuits with different lengths (from the breaker, the wiring and the power cords)creating a ground plane - a "rectangle" of wires. These different lengths have different resistance and with that come voltage potentials created along the ground planes. This causes induced stray currents in the ground wiring (or conduit or BX) - the cause of ground loop hums.

IMO, add additional circuits only if absolutely necessary. I have three circuits: two for mono block amps (due to power draw) and one for the entire front end. No problems whatsoever with ground loops since all three circuits terminate in the same gangbox resulting in all outlets haven the same ground conductor length. I'm sure others will have differing opinions, but this is what works for me.

Max, lifting the ground is far better done NOT at the male AC via a cheater plug but by USING an existing PC's shield as a floating ground and lifting at the component end (IEC) to further possibily reduce noise.............
Interesting thread. I usuallly advise running a MAX of 4 dedicated lines: 2 for big monos, one for all remaining analog, and one for digital, and then reduce the number to three if only one amp OR the digital can remain on a dirty preexisting house line, or two if both of the above, or just one dedicated line if the system just comprises an integrated amp for the dedicated line and the CDP on the vestigial house line. As long as the dirty digital is kept well-isolated from the low-level analog pre.
Nice posts, guys.

Thanks for the responses guys.

I am planning on going with five dedicated lines so that one line on each side of the room can be used for a powered speaker and a subwoofer. One line for analog, one for digital, and one for the amp. I am also considering going ahead with a sixth dedicated line which would be used for my second amp if I decide later to monoblock my amps.

My plan is to use 10/2 romex throughout the rewiring project with equal lengths of wire being used on all circuits. I will also be checking with PartsExpress to see if they have any 10 gauge solid core 99.95% OFC AC wire. My plan is to go 20 amps on each dedicated circuit.

I have decided against the Wattgate outlet because of expense and go with a cryo treated Hubbell 5362's but would like to hear your opinions of that change and make suggestions if there is another you like better.

I don't want to overkill this process, but I would prefer to get all the wiring done at the same time and be done with it.

Glen and Subaruguru...I will be using your suggestions when I discuss this installation with my licensed electrician. If you have any other suggestions, I'd love to hear them.

Jcambron, if you are installing 6 dedicated lines, I'd suggest making sure that the line lengths are fairly short. You might consider a subpanel near your listening room. Then star ground with equal length wire runs from the subpanel to the outlets, and see that the lines are on the same phase, with the main household items on the opposite leg. Regarding outlets, I like the Hubbell 5362's a great deal but haven't compared them to Wattgates.

Thanks for the invite to repost, Jc. I further agree with Flex fully. If the lines are long, using a sub with a FAT feeder will reduce loop potential. As well the 5362 is my favorite duplex (disclaimer: I have a bunch for sale for only $10 each). No sense paying extra for Hospital unless you need explosion proofness, eh?
Further, I really do believe is using a better dielectric for the dedicated lines that will serve the components that handle the low level audio signal, especially the analog.
So I'd suggest using the Belden 83803 (another disclaimer, as I sell the stuff "preburned in") for that analog line, and possibly for the digital...again as ong as they're kept separate. If the lines aren't too long, it'd even be better to put 5 lines on the sub-panel and run the digital one separately back to the main instead of through the sub!
Be aware that solid 10AWG is a bare to wire in tight duplexes, so leave a bit of room around corners, etc. The 12AWG 83803 is MUCH more installation friendly....