Will dedicated power lines eliminate ground loops

Glen: Am I reading this right? That your I.G. recepticles are "star grounded" to an isolated ground bar that is not (currently) referenced to ground?

I've tied the I.G. bar to the panel ground bar with a jumper at my main panel temporarily :^(

This has been an on going project, and I still have a few loose ends to tie up before I can complete the true isolated grounding.

I'm not big on lifting or floating the ground.

But that's just me :^)

The short answer is: not necessarily. Try to minimize the number of dedicated circuits. Ground loop hum probability increases with each grounded power cord you plug into different outlets on different circuits. Sounds counter-intuitive, but one circuit for all your gear gives the greatest possibility of eliminating ground loops. That's because all of your grounded plugs terminate at the same point in the circuit - preventing ground planes from being created.

If you plug each component into its own dedicated circuit, you now have multiple circuits with different lengths (from the breaker, the wiring and the power cords)creating a ground plane - a "rectangle" of wires. These different lengths have different resistance and with that come voltage potentials created along the ground planes. This causes induced stray currents in the ground wiring (or conduit or BX) - the cause of ground loop hums.

IMO, add additional circuits only if absolutely necessary. I have three circuits: two for mono block amps (due to power draw) and one for the entire front end. No problems whatsoever with ground loops since all three circuits terminate in the same gangbox resulting in all outlets haven the same ground conductor length. I'm sure others will have differing opinions, but this is what works for me.

Max, lifting the ground is far better done NOT at the male AC via a cheater plug but by USING an existing PC's shield as a floating ground and lifting at the component end (IEC) to further possibily reduce noise.............
Interesting thread. I usuallly advise running a MAX of 4 dedicated lines: 2 for big monos, one for all remaining analog, and one for digital, and then reduce the number to three if only one amp OR the digital can remain on a dirty preexisting house line, or two if both of the above, or just one dedicated line if the system just comprises an integrated amp for the dedicated line and the CDP on the vestigial house line. As long as the dirty digital is kept well-isolated from the low-level analog pre.
Nice posts, guys.

Thanks for the responses guys.

I am planning on going with five dedicated lines so that one line on each side of the room can be used for a powered speaker and a subwoofer. One line for analog, one for digital, and one for the amp. I am also considering going ahead with a sixth dedicated line which would be used for my second amp if I decide later to monoblock my amps.

My plan is to use 10/2 romex throughout the rewiring project with equal lengths of wire being used on all circuits. I will also be checking with PartsExpress to see if they have any 10 gauge solid core 99.95% OFC AC wire. My plan is to go 20 amps on each dedicated circuit.

I have decided against the Wattgate outlet because of expense and go with a cryo treated Hubbell 5362's but would like to hear your opinions of that change and make suggestions if there is another you like better.

I don't want to overkill this process, but I would prefer to get all the wiring done at the same time and be done with it.

Glen and Subaruguru...I will be using your suggestions when I discuss this installation with my licensed electrician. If you have any other suggestions, I'd love to hear them.