Tekton Double Impacts

Yes. Add a 15 ohm resistor across the two 6 inch midrange drivers. . One 15 ohm resistor placed in each speaker. It needs to be placed in parallel to the 68uf shunt capacitor. The resistor should be at least 10 watts.

You will need to access the crossover board behind the tweeter array and solder it in parallel to that 68uf electrolytic Capacitor. Not easy.

Newer DIs have this resistor already. Not sure the date the builder starting adding these parallel resistors. My speakers were made in August and did not have them. I very much liked the result finding the speaker was more cohesive and smooth. Smoothness and a wonderful cohesiveness was readily noticeable. My wife did a blind a/b with the resistor in and out and MUCH preferred the sound with the resistor in place. Same with me. Not a slight difference, but one you will hear right away. My crossover is outboard so I could easily compare with the resistor in and out of the circuit. The sonic improvement was so enjoyable for us that I soldered in the Duelund 15 ohm resistor in short order. 

Dont use a cheap sand cast resistor IMHO. Parts in parallel crossover positions also matter. I used a nice Duelund CAST. You could also use Mills MRA12 resistors at just $4 each.

I want to share that Eric at Tekton was kind enough to share the value of this resistor to me. This is a very worthwhile upgrade and points to the fact that the builder is passionate about continuously extracting the very best sound possible out of his design without raising the price!

The two junctions points to solder in the resistor are easy to locate and that is good news. Since it is soldered in parallel to the small black and white 68uf electrolytic cap start looking for it.  It is located in between ( almost centered)  between the three inductor/coils. This cap is actually connected to the largest inductor/coil of the three. The point that they both meet the parts are twisted together and soldered. One end of the resistor is soldered here. The other end of the 68uf cap is the junction point for all the black (-)wire negative leads from the tweeters and midrange drivers. Easy to spot as you will see many solder connections here with black (-) wire leads from the drivers. The other end of the resistor goes here. 

Hey Bill,

at www.westernelectric.com they have the WE KS-13385 wire from 2-28 gauge. 
If you go to PRODUCTS then COMPONENTS you'll find it.

While at the site check out their WE 300B Monoblocks with eight 300B's per channel. I like their vintage looks with huge meters on the faceplate. Too bad that at $50k/pair they are way out of my range!

I forget which end of the crossover board you need to access. Was it towards the top or bottom of the array? I forget. Sorry. Remove the top or bottom midrange driver and take a quick look. Can you access the solder points without removing the board? Possibly if partially behind one of the midrange drivers.  I think it is possible, but you will need surgeon like skills 😊

The board is hot glued and can be pried lose by using a stiff paint scraper etc...between the board and cabinet and slowly and carefully separating it from the cab from the lower midrange driver opening. The driver wires have some slack and you can now carefully move the board within the speaker and position it so you can access the resistor solder points through a mid driver cutout. Solder in the resistor and reapply some glue, liquid nails etc.  behind the board and press back into position. Not easy, but it can be done carefully.  

 

Thanks Granny. Will definitely be looking into doing this. Could a guy just use alligator clips to attach it at first to try it out?