Tape heads

It would be difficult to completely demagnetize a screwdriver. Maybe they make stainless steel screwdrivers (non-magnetic) for this job. A plastic screwdriver would be too soft.

You are probably not using it right, but before we get into that, what is the E-1 for? Cassette heads, r2r heads, or bulk tape demag?

Never mind, I Googled it. It's an r2r head demag. Probably not strong enough for a (regular size) screwdriver.

Anyway, do you know how to use one? If not, I'd be happy to explain.

Thanks, Nsgarch. I am using it for a R2R. I know how to use one but I actually do have a question about the method.

First, here's what I know.
Turn the unit on about 6' away from the tape heads and approach the heads slowly. When at the heads, move the demagnetizer back and forth 4 or 5 times over the heads, guides, etc. at a speed of 1" per second. Slowly move the unit until 6' away from the tape deck, turn the demager 90 degrees, and turn off. Repeat for each head, guide, capstan, etc.

So here's my question. Do I have to move the demagnetizer 6' away from the deck after each individual component is demaged or can I just demag all of the components and THEN move the demager away from the deck?

To demagnetize your screwdriver, simply drop it on the concrete(or other hard surface) with the tip down. Repeat as necessary to eliminate any residual magnetisim.

Cody

Ketch,

I think you mean 6 inches, not 6 feet, don't you? Anyway, I suggest 18" to 2' for that size unit. You can approach the deck, demag everything, and then move away. The idea is not to turn the unit on or off while close to the metal heads, or you can actually magnetize them more than the tape would. With that small a unit, you probably don't want to run it for more than a minute or two at a time. The buzz is normal.

Move the tip of the demag unit back and forth over the head in the direction of the gap about 1/8" to 1/4" away from the metal. I think your unit has some kind of plastic over the tip so you can't scratch the head if you accidentally touch it. If not, wrap a turn of electrical tape around it where the two prongs come together, it won't affect the operation.

I think the unit is probably too small to have much effect on a typical screwdriver. You'd probably have better luck just heating the screwdriver over the stove, or with a propane torch.

I agree with Codygrayland. Fawley's magnetic principle states that the screwdriver's tangent point increases the chance for a charge, so the concrete, which is inherently an antiferritic mineral substance, should do the trick. Good luck!

For a couple of bucks you can purchase a device at your local hardware store which is made to magnetize and demagnetize tools. They work great.
As for demagnetizing heads, the method you are using sounds about right to me. I've done it several times but always wondered how demagnetizing each component interacts with other previously demagnetized parts.

You need to be very careful when you demagnitize your r2r heads.NSGARCH gave you the correct info.I have the Teac
E-1 as well, and the original instructions that came with the unit & my technical manual that came with my Reel to Reel.The technical manual clearly states that you should not turn the E-1 off unless your atleast 6 FEET away from the unit ourelse you risk magnetizing your heads permanently creating a real nightmare indeed.
Also do not I repeat do not pass the Head Magnetizer over your VU Meters while its on.This can permanently ruin your meters as well.