Help Match Cables To Gear Please


Hello all. 
I’m a long time member and lurker but have never dove down the rabbit hole of cables mainly because all the misinformation floating around. 
Little back info-

I’m 40 years old and have never been in the camp of denier or believer in High-End/HiFi/Audiophile cables but always knew better than to flush money away on something I couldn’t return if wasn’t satisfied with purchasing. But now that I can listen to demos on the internet and clearly hear a difference on some of the videos I feel a heck of a lot more comfortable in purchasing higher end cables over the internet. 
I live in a rural city in SW Kentucky so have never had the opportunity to demo various high end audio products while growing up. I did however purchase my first AVR and big box 15” speakers at age 11 so I have been into both audio and video relatively all my life. 
I’ve always just gone by the reference, “you get what you pay for” with pretty much everything. This approach has at least kept me away from cheap zip cord and the such but also has kept me from trying any sort of audio cables that I feel would better match my gear since there weren’t any vendors in my area. Sticking to brands that are known in the industry like Mogami have been my “go to” for speaker cables and interconnects. 
When I was trying to find demos I could actually hear a difference over the internet I stumbled across a cable demonstration by Danacables that clearly showed how one of their designs helped control the actual speaker by making it stop faster than regular off the shelf zip cord. 
Between physically seeing a cable affect the speaker and being able to hear differences I felt like there really couldn’t be that many “snake oil” companies out there if real companies are in the market too. I’ve always felt like we have been introducing all kinds of new pollutants  into our environment with new technologies yet I’ve never tried upgrading cables that could help eliminate these unwanted pollutants. Not only would these new unwanted variables be put in check but also some of the newer speaker cable technology in general could be applied at the same time. I’m no scientist but have a feeling cable can’t just be cable when I’ve been using the same product that was basically used by my grandparents for the most part. Maybe I have the oxygen free advantage but that is it most likely. The rest of the world surrounding us has changed greatly since my grandparents were purchasing speaker wire but yet Ive been using the same thing out of pure ignorance listening to those who claim cables are cables. 
Now that I believe I have a “permanent” system in place in my dedicated theater room I want to try to match my gear to some cables that should in theory bring out the best in the total system. 
Being that this is a theater room I have to consider which way to proceed as far as spending money on cables since I can’t afford to wire the entire room with ultra expensive cabling. There are just way too many channels, amplifiers, and speakers to purchase crazy expensive cabling for all of it. 
My thinking is to run the best possible speaker cables to the LCRs. Use upgraded power cables for all the amplifiers, and use upgraded XLR cables to the LCRs while sticking to Mogami XLRs for the rest of the surrounds unless I notice a dramatic difference when swapping my LCR cables to the surrounds. 
My system consists of the following-

Pre Pro- Trinnov Altitude32
LCR- Quested Audio LT20s (custom) totally active
Lc/Rc and DTS-X Pro Front Heights LCRs are all LT10s
Remaining Surrounds- Quested Audio Z8s
LCR Mid and Sub Amps- MC2
LCR AMT Amps- Hypex NCore 500 Monoblocks per AMT driver. 
So with that gear my experience tells me that the AMT drivers across the board from my LCRs to the Z8 surrounds have a very revealing, crisp sound with a super wide soundstage. Sorry I’m not good at descriptions with audio products. 
The midrange drivers are super clear but not quite ultra revealing, more cool than warm, and have huge transients. 
The sub drivers are what I would call fast and crisp but lacking in punch or attack. I also have separate modules ran to the LCRs for further ULF extension making them a 4-way instead of a 3-way. These bass modules are using AE 18” drivers in a vented enclosure with #10 OFC wire but willing to upgrade this wire as well if it’s not outrageous being that the bass setup in home theater is generally completely different than general stereo applications but I’m all for better sonics regardless. 
Then I have way too many subs and mid bass modules to detail. Most of the subs are 21” and 24” high xmax drivers all ran for maximum Ultra Low Frequency extension for movies. They are flat down to 3-5hz at the MLP. All these subs and bass modules are currently wired with the same #10 OFC wire as the LCR sub drivers. 
I think I covered my situation and background well enough as I hate dragging those who read this along even more. So if there are any who think they have experienced greatness out of certain combinations with similar gear please do share!

Bests
Alex
 


alford_r35
There are quite a few cables that use "A BOX" at the beginning of the run. It usually has an inductor, and some, have a bass notch. Others use a second network at the end of the run for HF attenuation, and UHF cut, usually around 19 - 20K. Yes they have tone control.

Some use the "the box" to add different wire composition in series, and or parallel.
Sometimes the negative, or the positive, or both. I used a lot of different types, and sizes on turret boards..

The cable themselfs, have a signature too. No doubt Aluminum, vs copper, vs silver, vs a clad of tin, copper, silver, or gold on the conductor. Solid core, multi strand, mixed stand, shielding, dielectrics, covers and armor... Then there is bare or tinned. A lot use terminals, same thing, copper, brass, silver, tinned, bronze, Alu, SS. Carbon.

They all sound the same?

Then there is WAR PAINT... You know the stuff you paint on and let settle between all the connections...
Usually, super conductive.

Oh yea it all changes the sound....

Regards
I believe wire can definitely impact tone but where you get into trouble is when you try to use wire to "fix" tone problems/dislikes associated with other parts of your system.  I've gone down that path and ultimately have always replaced the offending piece of gear despite improvements I was able to make with a cable.
I highly recommend Audio Envy cabling.Their top of the line is inexpensive,very well made,and will give you a touch of warmth and body to your 'crisp'presentation.Cabling is not a fix but more of a compliment to the system's sound.
Im using top of the line PURIST on everything sounds wonderful.
Over the past 6 months I've been converting my ICs to Tellurium Q and replacing my Cardas Clear Lights.  I find the TQ's provide a very organic and neutral presentation at a really nice price point.