Electrical supply home wiring project

I had my electrician friend run me a line from my main panel,
I believe is 6 or 7 gauge,the two breakers in the main are 40a.he installed a sub panel in the living room(8-15a breakers)which gave me 8 receptacles(16 power inputs).
My audio techs recommended 10 gauge wire for the sub and receptacles(that's what we did).I use TORUS power isolation
on my components and amps(HUGE,HUGE,HUGE difference),as the
Torus(Bryston website) will give you up to 400a of short term reserve power,a wall receptacle can give you,15a,20a ect.If you go with a power conditioner,you really owe it to
YOURSELF to try one out from your Audio dealer,as I've said
before a MAJORE UPGRADE.

where the wall receptacle can give you 15a,20a,ect.

There is a consensus that your Cable Box/Satellite Box and perhaps monitor--whatever you are using-- should be on seperate. Also, Amps should be isolated from digital components.

20 Amp circuits are good---you don't want the switchbreaker to be so strong that it won't trip when the component is failing.

Also, pay attention to low voltage cables that you might want to run in the walls. Overdo this as you will want to make changes later. Finally, if you can, run some empty electrical conduit to 'future proof' your walls as you might want to add something later.

Contact your local Building Department and see if you need a permit. You may not be required to get permit, based on total value of work to be done. It is better to be safe. Fines for work without permit double the project cost. Hire a Licensed Electrical contractor. CYA!

Since most line conditioners do not provide bi-directional filtering and since it looks like you will have two dedicated lines I would configure according to the following:

o TV, cable box, etc. all on non-dedicated outlets and disconnect all interconnects/tv cables when you want to listen to audio only.

o CD / dvd players (digital) on one dedicated line. But when one is on turn the other completely off because digital components generate bi-directional digital noise and that noise will go right over to the component you may be using.

o All analog components on the other dedicated line. But you would obtain better dynamics if nothing shared the dedicated line with your amp(s).

But to some degree it's all for naught because the bi-directional digital noise will make its way back to the service panel and then induce the noise into the other circuits/lines. Your home computer does likewise.

So to really take advantage of dedicated lines invest in one or two excellent line conditioners such as the Foundation Research models which also provides bi-directional filtering.

But to be frank, if you have proper line conditioners installed everywhere, dedicated lines buy you nothing whatsoever. That is except for the amplifier's line where a dedicated line helps to ensure that the amp has enough juice on hand to reproduce dynamic and complex passages.

Lastly, you might consider some cryo-treated audio grade outlets and use simple 10 or 12 gauge romex and outlets and with your AC lines being so short, I'd suggest cryo-treating the romex as well.

-IMO

As Stehno mentions, cryo'd Romex is a nice upgrade.

Use 12ga. solid core romex, not stranded. Use hospital grade outlets also.

YEAH, FOR PLUGS GO WITH THE PORTERPORTS, made by Albert of Audiogon fame.