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Electrical supply home wiring project

Hello all,

I am looking for some helpful suggestions in designing my electrical power supply to my combined home theatre and two channel system. All of my components are presently solid state.

I have two 20amp circuit breakers that I intend to dedicate to my system. My circuit breaker box is about 20 feet from my system. I am having a licensed electrician do the work.

Here are the components to my system. A 52 inch LCD television, TIVO DVR, Yamaha RX-Z9 AV receiver, universal disk player, Classe CA 200 amp (200 watts into 8 ohms), a Classe CP 35 preamp (line level), classe CD player, vpi turntable, Simaudio phono stage pre-amp, velodyne DD12 subwoofer, and possibly other components down the road. So I need at a minimum, 10 outlets, however, to make room for expansion I should probably plan to have 12 to 14 outlets.

I am looking for recommendations on how to provide these outlets. Should they all be hard wired, should I use audio grade outlets or separate line conditioners? How should I configure the outlets to minimize interference? Any recommendations on the type and gauge of wire? Should I use separate power conditioners or power conditioning outlet strips?

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
papajoe
drummermitchell's avatar
drummermitchell
262 posts
 
I had my electrician friend run me a line from my main panel,
I believe is 6 or 7 gauge,the two breakers in the main are 40a.he installed a sub panel in the living room(8-15a breakers)which gave me 8 receptacles(16 power inputs).
My audio techs recommended 10 gauge wire for the sub and receptacles(that's what we did).I use TORUS power isolation
on my components and amps(HUGE,HUGE,HUGE difference),as the
Torus(Bryston website) will give you up to 400a of short term reserve power,a wall receptacle can give you,15a,20a ect.If you go with a power conditioner,you really owe it to
YOURSELF to try one out from your Audio dealer,as I've said
before a MAJORE UPGRADE.

where the wall receptacle can give you 15a,20a,ect.
unclejeff
1,313 posts
 
There is a consensus that your Cable Box/Satellite Box and perhaps monitor--whatever you are using-- should be on seperate. Also, Amps should be isolated from digital components.

20 Amp circuits are good---you don't want the switchbreaker to be so strong that it won't trip when the component is failing.

Also, pay attention to low voltage cables that you might want to run in the walls. Overdo this as you will want to make changes later. Finally, if you can, run some empty electrical conduit to 'future proof' your walls as you might want to add something later.
vegasears
1,173 posts
 
Contact your local Building Department and see if you need a permit. You may not be required to get permit, based on total value of work to be done. It is better to be safe. Fines for work without permit double the project cost. Hire a Licensed Electrical contractor. CYA!
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