Cardas Golden Reference - Reterminate?

Assuming your cable is terinated as a std xlr already - going to a non-balanced set up (again assuming that you are using RCA's on some ends of the cables) terminate the wires connected to pins 1 and 3 to the sleeve and pin 2 to the center conduductor. If this did not answer your question, provide additional detail.

Musicnoise, you're correct, the cables are already terminated with XLRs and I'm converting to RCAs. You've answered my question, although it's the opposite of what I expected. I would have thought that the center conductor would take two conductors instead of one?

Also, to be clear, I'm assuming that the shield conductors are soldered to the sleeve on one end and the two ground wires are connected to the other.

Thanks again!

Musicnoise,

I've found information on the web that discusses the wiring needed to *convert* XLR to RCA, which is identical to the instructions you describe above.

I'm wanting to understand, however, if the internal wiring of the CGR reflects this as well (1 conductor for hot, 2 for ground on RCAs).

I really appreciate your help!

I have no idea how your cables are wired internally. You can take an ohmeter and find out. Typically, pin 1 is connected to the cable shield, pin 2 is connected to the non-inverted signal and pin 3 is connected to the inverted signal. Non-inverted and inverted are convenient terms. The benefit of a balanced connection is that the signal is not carried via the shield but rather differentially. I tend to think of balanced as analogous to differential and unbalanced as analogous to single ended. Because the signal is carried differentially the common mode noise signal is present on both signal condutors. As one is inverting and the other is not, the common mode signal (the unwanted signal) is canceled.

You may already be aware of this, but in case you are not...The other thing to be careful of the the fact that you are dealing with Cardas ICs. There are many wires in there and each has an enamel coating, which is reportedly extremely difficult to get off for termination. So unless you unsolder the XLRs from the cable, and then use that same bit of the conductors (that were previously soldered to the XLR), you will likely have difficulty getting the job done correctly and quickly.

Technique is important in removing the coating on the litz wires - simply ensure that all conductor tips are covered with flux and dip into a solder pot. I'm very capable and successful at this (strictly a hobby!)

I'm still left with uncertainty about wiring - I have 3 main conductors and need to determine how many go to hot and how many to ground. I suppose it doesn't matter too much, limitations likely to the lowest common denominator (single conductor).

Once you are done the cables are essentially worthless i.e. they will have no resale value. I had Cardas do the same job for me a few years ago and what they charged was well worth it because I later sold them as factory terminated and more than made up for what I paid them to do it. I don't know what they charge now but it is worth considering.

*Once you are done the cables are essentially worthless i.e. they will have no resale value* (Herman)

Cardas Golden Reference are very expensive cables (duh), so I pretty much agree with what Herman said above. It almost seems a shame to start slicing & cutting them. I also wonder if a DIY slicing & re-terminating of expensive cables (higher-end Cardas, Nordost, whatever) would yield the same sound quality as factory terminated?

I'd at least call Cardas before proceeding......

Cardas charges $50 per END, (not per pair) for retermination. It is impossible for anyone but Cardas to reterminate their cable properly no matter how talented you are at soldering. I was a Cardas dealer for many years and have seen how this is done...don't even try.

I appreciate the fact that resale value only would exist if Cardas did the termination. This, of course, is an option (have Cardas 're-terminate & certify') now and after my own termination procedures.

I remain confident about my abilities, as I've done this a lot (with Cardas Golden Cross, to great success, which is an bigger pain in the butt w/more conductors than CGR). Wiring instructions would be greatly appreciated, if available.

I'll likely bite the bullet now instead of waiting to spend the cash (>$600) to have them made 'sale-able' (terminated & certified by cardas).

Thanks to all for the replies!