Can car amps be used for home audio?


Hey all, I'm a penniless kid looking for a highly cost-effective way to drive a pair of Maggie MMGs. I'm both intrigued by and suspicious of the fact that class A/B monoblocks made for cars often boast what appear to be good specs for WAY less money on average than their home audio counterparts. Anyone have hands-on experience using car amps in the home? What's it sound like? Also, what kind of tinkering around would be necessary to power them from a standard 125v outlet?
sideshowgabe
1-Car amps have much higher distortion levels in regards to the wattage ratings. If you compare these amps at the same distortion level as a mid range audio amp, the car amps would have much lower power ratings.
2-You would need a really good 12 volt converter and hope that there's no hum.
3-Maggies like power, good clean power.
For the cost of a really good car amp and 12volt converter, you could pick up a used Adcom amp or similar for less money and much better quality.
Three years ago I heard the some of the car amps on the page link below. They were driving some tough load high end speakers. Sounded pretty good to me.

http://zukiaudio.net/index.html
Buy an Adcom GFA5500.
Don't ever mention car audio or Bose, on this site.
You'll be fine.
When I first assembled the subwoofer for my 4Runner I hooked it up in my house using a 900 watt car audio amplifier and a 300 watt computer supply. I was amazed at how great it actually sounded. If the volume was up too much it would shut the power supply down on low notes, but it was the most bass that I've had in my house.

Obviously, a subwoofer is a completely different animal than a set of Maggie's so I couldn't predict what results you might have. If you already have the stuff to test it out then go for it (unless someone can give you a reason why it could damage your speakers), but if you have to make a purchase then go with home audio equipment for the best results.
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If you can't mention car audio or bose, you shouldn't mention Adcom either IMO.
I did this when I was in college and it sounded fine honestly, just get a good power supply and you should be fine.

Don't expect audiophile performance, but it sounded better than expected.
Hot about running such a system 'total loss' from a couple of SLA batteries and charge as needed?
Or perhaps a battery charger and capacitor bank? They make some HUGE caps for automotive audio use.
there are also plenty of cheaper 'pro amps' out there - but really, why bother? You can pick up something like a B&K ST-140 for under $200. I own one, and though it isn't my main amp, it still had enough power and finesse to drive my Magnepan 1.6QRs.