I had the dti pro, and the pro 32. I can't remember the exact sequence.---I do remember holding one button in while pushing another. you get 1/2/or 3 lights. You have to listen to each to find what sounds better to you.--Maybe someone will chime in and be more specific.
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Press and hold down the Phase Button,
While it is depressed, press the input button, note that the "INPUT LED's" change each time the INPUT button is depressed.
The INPUT's LEDS indicates which dithering selection has been made.
If the top LED is on, then no dirthering has been selected, use this setting if your DAC is only capable of handling a 16 bit data stream.
If the middle LED is on, then the unit is dirthering at 18 bits, and should be used with 18 bit DACs ***note if you use this setting with a DAC only capable of 16 bit resolution , you may get some ringing.
If the bottom LED is on, then the unit is dirthering at 20 bit ***note if you use this setting with a 16 or 18 bit DAC, you may get some ringing.
After settting the dirthering, go back and make sure you haven't changed the units "PHASE"...this can happen sometimes after toggeling the buttons, while trying to set dirthering.
Your DTI Pro 32 is capable of 2 seperate function.....
1st... it will dejitter a 16 bit data stream, this will tighten up the bass, and clean up the top end. Makes it less fatiguing
2nd... it will add dirthering to make a 16 bit word, look like up to a 20 bit word to the DAC. This seems to increase the dynamic range a bit.
Dirthering is accomplished by adding very small amounts of low level "Quantitized" noise to the original word string, this tricks the DAC into thinking the word string is longer, hence puesdo 18 and 20 bit resolution. The 32 in the model number indicates that the unit actually expands the word string to 32 bits, and then choses, via a floating decimal point, the best 16 bits before dithering.
If you can find one of those high current power supplies PS2,PS3 or PS4 do so, and replace that wall wart that comes from the factory. Also if you can locate one of the Channel Island upgrade chips, you can take another step forward. The Channel Island chip looks at the data stream a little differently than the factory upgrade chip...The CI chip looks at the bass info separately than the Mids and Treble.
One last thing, those BNC to RCA adapters that come from the factory aren't the best. You can get the ends of your interconnect that go to the DTI PRO 32 reterminated with BNC's, or look for a high quality "true" 75 ohm BNC to RCA adapter. At one time they were available from Virtual Mode. Some will say this doesn't make any difference, I beg to differ.
Have Fun, Dave
Avguy...thanks for the kind words,
My feeling is the current trend of upgrading the clock's in our players to Super Clocks, with dedicated power supplies, will all but seal the extinction of "JITTER BUSTER BOX"
We will have to go to The Museum Of Natural History, just to see a Meridian 518 or a Genesis Digital Lens.
Roy...my pleasure, any other questions, drop me a line. You can also use (2) DTI PRO 32 strapped together for even more fun.
Yioryos...the Genesis Digital lens and the Meridian 518 are a level above the AA stuff. They have more robust power supplies and higher quailty internal parts (premium grade) than the AA equipment, which was built to a price point geared for high value.
With the Genesis and Meridian pieces retailing at nearly $2000 in their day, the $700 DTI PRO 32 filled a certain gap for those who believe that Dejittering had it's benefits.
The Genesis won't perform the dithering, I think the Meridian does, and calls it noise shaping. If you are using a older DAC which only operates at 16/44/48 there will be little or no value to dirthering. If you have a later model 24 bit capable DAC you could always use a outboard UPSAMPLER after your Lens.
I've never care for UPSAMPLING as to my ears it "Minuterizes" not "Shrinks" the sound stage, and seems to take something away from the leading edge of the "note". I also am not a fan of 1 bit Delta Sigma DAC's.
Give me a good old fashion 8 times oversampling, multi bit ladder DAC. They tend to have a slightly more forward balance (not bright), That seems to add speed and excitement to the presentation.
A 44.1 eight times oversampling DAC will operate at 352.8 (8x44.1) a 1 bit upsampling DAC operates at 192.
If you can find a Digital Lens or a Meridian 518 on A/gon for about $500 or less buy it. Make sure you get the remote with the Genesis piece.
Two other interesting pieces in the Jitterbug arena are the Monarchy 24/96 ($150 used) and the Camelot Dragon Pro MKII.($800 used with AC3/DTS chip) Both these pieces will handle 24/96 data streams and pass a AC3/DTS signal. Nice if your HT is intergrated with your 2 channel.
Both these pieces have transformer coupled output stages which tend to be quieter, than the typical (price point) capacitor coupled output stages of the AA equipment.
The Camelot piece will also do Resolution Enhancement (dirthing), the Monarchy will not.
I use 2 (double jitter) Camelot Dragons Pro MKII in my HT set up.
There are some errors in the information above that need to be corrected. I suspect your comments concern the original Dti Pro, and not the Dti Pro 32, which is the subject of the thread.
The Dti Pro 32 retailed for $1595.00 not $700, and it is a much more sophisticated beast than the original Pro. It is also capable of 16,18, 20,22 and 24 bit resolution, not just up to 20 bit, as you mentioned.
Also, the resolution settings that you list are incorrect. The correct settings are as follows:
HDCD off off off
16 bit off off on
18 bit off on off
20 bit off on on
22 bit on off off
24 bit on off on
none on on off
The method of toggling the LED's is as you described.
This unit competes favorably with the Genesis Digital Lens, but works best in an all AA system using the proprietary I2s bus between DDS Pro Transport, Dti Pro32 and DDE V3.0 Dac. The V3.0 is HDCD capable and the Pro32 can pass HDCD.
Here's a good article that explains more http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_3_3/v3n3j.html