Sounds like you're on the right track with the dedicated lines. I don't know that aluminum wire is still in use. It's not where I live. I'm not sure you need much else. So many conditioners restrict dynamics, etc. I would definitely recommend using Wattgate ac plugs on your dedicated outlets.
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The service lateral drop from the transformer to your house I am sure is aluminum. I doubt if the power company will install anything but aluminum. The wire feeding the transformer is also aluminum. Just make sure the electrician uses copper for the service drop thru the meter socket and to the new electrical panel. What brand and type of electrical panel is the electrician installing? If he has not installed it as yet, I recommend a Square D QO. Not the Square D home line panel.
As for your dedicated circuits install at least one more, three. The extra cost will be next to nothing. As for the Porter Ports receptacles they are a very good Hubbell HBL 8300H Hosp grade outlet and well worth the $36.00 each. You can always upgrade to higher $$$$ outlets later if you like.
what is the difference between the two types of panels?
info for the QO:
The HomeLine has aluminum buss bars.
Just to get back to everyone with thanks. The electrical work is done and I was able to get some of what I asked for during the process.
I really couldn't get the town to perform tests on the transformer that sits on the pole outside my house. I have to assume that it is working properly. I also could not get copper lines run from the pole to the house. I was told they are simply too heavy (and currently too expensive) to make a long run like mine with copper. I had more success inside the house, where I had some control over the work that was done. I had the electrician swap out the aluminum buss bars in my Murray panel with specially ordered copper ones. I also bought and had the electrician install an Environmental Potentials surge arrestor and noise reducer. (I forget the model's particular name, I think it is the "Home Protection Devise"). I then had him run a dedicated twenty amp line from the panel to behind the entertainment center. He didn't go off the first tap as I asked because he had already loaded a few circuits in the box. He used 12 gauge wire for this line. I also had him replace the three existing outlets with the Porter Ports I had purchased earlier.
All in all I'm pretty pleased and looking forward to how the new feeds will affect the sound. Now if the builder would just finish and get out so I can set my system up!
Thanks again for all the help.
That panel will work. Is it available, is the price the same as the Murry? Did you compare the price of the breakers? I went w/100amp subpanel, it came with all the breakers 12(thermo-mag.) for under $100.00. All copper. I'm using 1-20amp for my Furman & 2-15amp 1 each for each amp.Keep us informed on how things go.
Thanks Guys, I will go with Murray. It is very hard to find QO with 40 circuits/outdoor. I am planning to go with regular Romex 10AWG and Oyaide R1 Cryo outlet.I am still debating whether to go for Environmental Potential EP 2050 & Ep 2750, too expensive ( $700 + $250). Is there alternative to that or cheaper place to buy them ?
Check out my system thread and another thread or two where I've talked about the EP units; they are WELL worth the money. Best $750 and $179 I've put into my system ever. Also on those threads I give details on my main and sub-panel; briefly, I've got a Cutler-Hammer 200amp main panel with copper busbars (EP 2050 installed there) and a GE (w/copper bars) interior sub-panel (EP 2750 units installed there). I had them pull straight (non-cryo) 10-guage Romex (it sound surprised me...length of run prohibited anything more expensive in the $10-$30/foot realm).
Outlets: I've used a lot of different ones over the years and about a year ago finally found something I like better than cryo'ed Oyaide R1s; Avatar Acoustics AFTERBURNER8 outlets are the best I've used/heard by far. Check them out.....sound, no exotic plating metallurgy with rock-solid design and sonics....
Questions,...let me know on this thread or in-mail on Audiogon.
Brownsfan: I think you'll be very surprised and happy with the result (I obviously am)!.
Diwakarv: I'll have to look up the model numbers of my CH/Eaton panel and GE panel when I get home off the road for work. They are both interior installs in my garage; see my system page for pictures.
I picked up the EP units from VHAudio. Here is the link to the EP2050, you'll have to ask about the 2750 units...;