Best Solder

I'm working my way up to building a k and k phono preamp. I've been practicing soldering on a couple of circuit boards.

Somebody told me that silver has very low resistance, which they said is desirable for solder. So, as an amateur, I thought that perhaps the solder with the highest amount of silver would be the best to use. If I understand Marakanetz, it is more important to use a solder with a lower melting point than one with a higher silver content.

I also understand that when soldering you want to heat the copper trace and the lead together and then melt the solder by touching it to the heated lead and copper trace - not to the tip of the soldering iron. Am I on the right track here? In my practicing, I find that it takes two or three additional seconds to melt the solder this way. Of course, it melts faster touching it to the tip of the iron, but I understand that this is a good way to get a "cold" joint.

Thanks for all your help.

Jj, You're definitely on the right track but the fastest melting solder consists only from lead wich has following important disdvantage:
The melting temperature is too low which means you can't use it in the power circuitry (or output tubes or transistors) affected by the heat. If heat acts on pure lead solder it will crack within the time to form a cold joint or lost of the contact.
Therefore pure lead or high content of lead solder should be used for small signal ICs that demand a very short duration of applied high temperature.

The mixture of tin lead and silver depending on quantity melts under different temperatures. Therefore it's a good practice to have at least two different kinds of solder.

You have to make shure that the power of the soldering iron is upto your application. For high-temperature solving solder you'll need higher power iron but than you'll have to make sure that you won't damage a circuit element.

2...3 seconds to melt is too slow. In my case the solder melts almost instantly and than leaks arround the soldering surfaces. This way you won't get any cold joint or bubble.

In this case I guess you'll need a more powerfull iron or different solder. For electronics applications you'll need the thin wire of solder

Having a soldering iron with variable power and number of different iron tips would help you match for a specific joint you will want to perform. Please also note that you should clean the iron tip freequently otherwise the heat transfer won't be efficient.

Dear Marakanetz,
Are you in agreement that the solder should be touched to the heated trace and lead and not to the tip of the iron?

If so, then I would need to either turn up the heat or use a solder with a lower melting point to shorten the two or three seconds after I touch the solder to the lead and the trace?

Right now, I touch the tip of the iron to the lead and trace together for about 3 seconds before touching the solder to the other side.

my experience has yielded good results by touching the solder to the iron-trace junction, so that some solder gets on each. Helps to speed up the initial melt at a somewhat lower junction temperature (causes less stress on the component) yet still flows well across the conducting surfaces being soldered

Jj it's just strictly technique issue.
Whenever you feel that conducting leads are ready to be joined, pour the solder onto them.

It must be a nice shiny "hut" but not blob or bubble...