Best Solder


I'm a little confused. What is the best solder? Johnson IA-423 (John Manufacturing), wbt or cardas? I'm about to start a project and the audio community experience would help. I was going to use cardas, but the Johnson has a high silver content (6.5% or so and no lead) and I've been told the wbt is a little more forward compared to cardas.
jj2468

Showing 4 responses by jj2468

I've read two variations on a single suggestion that appear to minimize risk of overheating the component and that purport to avoid a cold joint. My understanding follows, but I'm not sure I've got it right: apply the tip of the iron to about 1mm to 2mm of solder between the tip and the junction of the lead and trace; and as the solder instantly melts apply the iron tip to the junction of lead and trace and the tip of the solder to the junction of the lead, trace and instantly melted solder (not to the tip of the solder wire) and melt the amount of solder you need.

Am I understanding this right and do you recommend this technique? Does it avoid fried components?

Thanks again, Jeff
I'm working my way up to building a k and k phono preamp. I've been practicing soldering on a couple of circuit boards.

Somebody told me that silver has very low resistance, which they said is desirable for solder. So, as an amateur, I thought that perhaps the solder with the highest amount of silver would be the best to use. If I understand Marakanetz, it is more important to use a solder with a lower melting point than one with a higher silver content.

I also understand that when soldering you want to heat the copper trace and the lead together and then melt the solder by touching it to the heated lead and copper trace - not to the tip of the soldering iron. Am I on the right track here? In my practicing, I find that it takes two or three additional seconds to melt the solder this way. Of course, it melts faster touching it to the tip of the iron, but I understand that this is a good way to get a "cold" joint.

Thanks for all your help.
Dear Marakanetz,
Are you in agreement that the solder should be touched to the heated trace and lead and not to the tip of the iron?

If so, then I would need to either turn up the heat or use a solder with a lower melting point to shorten the two or three seconds after I touch the solder to the lead and the trace?

Right now, I touch the tip of the iron to the lead and trace together for about 3 seconds before touching the solder to the other side.