TT-101 turntables…or any DD decks


It’s funny how in audio…..I’ve had many mishaps over the years which have led to ‘forced’ improvements in my system…..

The latest happened just 3 days ago when the ‘Power’ switch on my 35 year old JVC/Victor TT-101 turntable failed to ‘turn-off’ when pressed……leaving the unit ‘powered up’ with three diodes continuously on……
I thought to myself……time to have the unit serviced and all the capacitors replaced (at least)…..

I have thus been listening over the last three days and nights and have been struck by the perceived improvement in ‘sound’?
Everything seemed better….the timing….the solidity…the noise-floor….the subtlety…..the transparency…..
And then it hit me……
With solid state gear…..I have always kept them ‘powered on’.
My Halcro DM-10 Preamp is always on ‘Mute’ (as was the valve Kebschull before it and the SS Electrocompaniet before then).
My Halcro DM-58 Monoblocks are always ‘on’ (as was the Perraux PM-1850 power amp before them).
Most DD drive turntables I know of are all solid state……
Why should they be any different?
Why would they not benefit from the capacitors being fully charged with the transformer/power supply, PCB, transistors and resistors fully ‘heated’?

This for me…has been a more significant improvement than ‘nakeding’ the ‘nude’ Victor which I recently accomplished…

It’s such an easy thing for anyone to try out….there is simply no ‘down-side’……other than the diodes burning out? :-)

Happy listening…..and Happy New Year….
128x128halcro
I doubt it's the bearing, Lew. I once heard a noise roughly of the kind you describe (it didn't sound like a pulsation, but I could hear it every 2nd or 3rd rotation). The noise was due to the platter scraping against the cover to the control panel. This had two different causes. First, the cover wasn't sufficiently screwed down tight enough. Second, after I messed with the bearing well, I evidently didn't reseat the platter to the same height (yes, the bearing screw at the bottom of the unit controls platter height). It sat too low and scraped against the control panel cover.

I relubed with Mobil 1 20w-50 motorcycle oil. There's no consensus on what to use, so I just used that almost at random. Prior to replacement, the existing bearing oil was quite dirty. Aigenga, another owner of the tt 101, did some experiments IIRC with different ball bearings, so you might pm him to get his insights prior to tackling it.

Since the bearing screw controls platter height, it is essential that you mark the screw's current position and count the number of rotations it takes to take it off. Some cement type compound was used to lock the screw in position. You'll need to deal with that and possibly consider a replacement after you're done. I didn't bother myself, but I know how exacting you are :).

Good luck. Am looking forward to hearing about how the Victor compares to the other direct drive giants that you own. I assume you have a giant plinth planned for it? Or are you, gasp, going to go nude?
Banquo, It is certainly true that the noise I hear is not "obviously" due to bearing friction, so I am open-minded as to other causes. But I did inspect the spacing around the platter, between the edge of the platter and the escutcheon, and I did not see any area of contact between the two. Is that what you mean?

As to the bearing, I gather you are saying that altho you do not think the noise is coming from the bearing you do think I should clean and lubricate the bearing. Yes?

I actually bought my TT101 as part of a QL10 ensemble. Thus I have the original Victor plinth with a 7045 tonearm mounted on it. My plan was, heaven forbid, to use it AS IS, first of all. After that, I was indeed thinking of a minimalist but heavy and sturdy probably metal support structure that I would say IS a plinth but some would say is a manifestation of plinthlessness. I am done with slate. I think it's great stuff, but I am finished with the aggravation associated with purchase, getting it cut, drilling holes, oiling the surface, etc, in order to end up with a nice finished product. I did it for SP10 Mk2, Mk3, and Denon DP80. Now I'm done.
But I did inspect the spacing around the platter, between the edge of the platter and the escutcheon, and I did not see any area of contact between the two.

Yeah, I didn't note any point of contact either, that's why it puzzled me for a couple of days. Perhaps I have mis-described the problem; can't be certain. Nevertheless, the 2 solutions I described for the noise I heard worked for me.

I assume no one messed with the bearing screw on yours. If my diagnosis is correct, then all you need to check is whether the escutcheon is screwed down tight. I mean really tight.

I believe the bearing oil is worth changing, if only for peace of mind. IIRC, Aigenga did it several times to try out different oils--so it's evidently not a difficult procedure. In other words, why not? Better now then after you have everything already set up.

I just remembered yet another cause for the noise I heard. I don't know if Bill had reason to unseat the motor, but in fact it rests on washers. If one forgets to put them back in, then the platter will be lower then it should be--and cause a noise every 2nd or 3d revolution. I recall now that I had to put those back because my second (sic!) tech forgot.
Thanks Henry

I know Chris, he is out at Croydon Park.

I did not realise he had experience with dd tables.

Cheers
Banquo,
We've never "pulled" the motor, and so far as I can tell by inspection, no one has ever messed with the screw that allows access to the bearing thrust plate. But when you say the motor rests on washers, I have to think. As you know, the electronics all hang on the metal assembly that also contains the motor per se. Are these "washers" accessed by trying to remove the motor from the rest of the metal structure? If so, mine should still have them; I am pretty sure Bill did not take that apart, and I know I didn't either.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I agree that now is the time to service the bearing.