"Parts upgrade" on crossovers -Any experiences?


I remeber upgrading the crossovers of a pair of B&W DM12's with esoteric resistors, caps and wiring (about 10 years ago). In the end I got a different speaker. The bottom end seemed improved and the highs were more delicate and smoother, but the midrange had lost some of the magic. I could not deal with the decreased midrange quality so I re-soldered most of the parts back to the crossovers but left the upgraded wire (the wire in there looked like tined copper and was tied with a Molex connector to the board!). I changed the parts since I felt that early 80's speakers could only benefit from higher quality parts and was worried that the cap values might be out of spec. I am currently using a pair of KEF 101 and I've been thinking about upgrading crossovers with Solen Caps, maybe some Caddok Resistors and Cardas or Kimber wire. The KEFs sound great but if I can get more out of them, I might give it a try. Anyone do similar upgrades with an increase in ALL aspects of your speakers performance...or have BAD results...or find the end result a mixed bag of better here, but worse there (like me)? Also, any input on what parts / brands to use and which not to use? Are Solen caps good choices (or are there others that work much better for this application)? Resisters Brands?
I am purposely leavig out the issue of active crossovers (don't want to find 4 identical monoblocks to run my speakers).
one_audiophile
Sean, I used "foam in a can" type. and it was VERY messy and hard to work with. Once I do the damping sheet mod, I will post my findings. :)
Why don't you get a Outboard Active Crossover network so you can adjust the points and give you the capability of Vertical amping which will go a long way in performance.

The Pro's are doing alot of this now and it's what I am going to do.

There are many advantages.Do a search of Vertical Amping to see what the advantages are.
Unsound, Liquid Nails is a brand name, and implies that it holds like steel nails do, but it's simply a thick liquid glue. Reminds me a bit of Weldwood contact cement the way it sticks (and smells), but it can be applied much like GE Silicone from the pointy dispenser tube.

It comes in a "small projects" tube, about the size of a tube of toothpaste, and in large cylinders the size of painters caulk. Inexpensive and typically available at Home Depot.
Rope caulk also works well to damp driver baskets and is easily removed if you don't like the results.

I've replaced the resistors in my Dunlavy SC-III's with Mills wirewounds and the Solen capacitors with Auricaps (all but one large 62 uF). I've been very pleased with the results and haven't noticed any change in the "voicing", only a very noticable increase in clarity and detail.

I'm a big believer in crossover upgrading. If you try it and don't like the results you can always return to the factory configuration.