Is the Teres a


I have just read Art Dudley's review of the Quattro Supreme (Stereophile, October issue), a table spawned from the basic Teres design. (The friendship, then break-up of the original Teres group is also mentioned as a side story.)

I have no experience with the Teres but the Supreme - a design very similar to the Teres - priced at $6,000 got a "B" rating (actually meaningless, but someone's got to give it some rating because we are a rating-mad people!).

Why doesn't Chris Brady send Art a table so that he could at least give the Teres a good review and exposure?

Art's reference, the LP12, by the way, beat the Supreme in one area: PRaT.

Cheers,
George
ngeorge
PRaT is one of those characteristics that can be faked by having a hot upper midrange (can you spell Linn?) which emphasizes the leading edge or instrumental attacks. Certainly, you can kill PRaT with excessive resonance, and I'm not suggesting that all components with a "hot" tonal balance will have PRaT. You can certainly can enhance it with frequency response anomalies however.

As I was packing for my move I decided to hook up the little Rat Shack AV-7 speakers RX8man gave me. I used my mother's 23 yr old NAD receiver with the infamous AIWA changer, a Soundstream/Krell DAC-1 and some basic filters. The system was cooking!!! It had really good beat, congas sounded intense and the bass was there, giving great boogie factor. Then I decided to clean the unit, put some Sil-clear in the fuse holders and when I plugged it back the R channel blew up (I thought everything was dry, oh well...). Point is I got my vintage Yamaha A-1 dual mono integrated out of the box and when hooked up it didn't have the boogie factor of the NAD. The Yamaha is more neutral, quieter, more detailed, more musical, so I figured the NAD's PRAT was a trick...exaggerating the leading edge of the conga's freq range (upper midrange) and the string bass frequencies(they call that acoustically correct tone controls or something).

Very well.
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Jonnanais,
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I would be happy to send you a piece of Mylar (same that Doug uses) in the mail.
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Just email me with your address and I will send it out to you today.
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Larry
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Larry- It's a little off-topic and I know that this came up in a thread somewhere, but where might one find suitable mylar and what materials/method do you use to attach the ends to form a loop?

Got a Well Tempered with an Origin Live DC motor and silk string belt, but want to experiment with the mylar.

Thanks
Jim
I would like to see many of the tables mentioned in this thread, if not all, in the audition. I'd also like to see them shielded from view, in the sense that those passing their sonic judgments do not know which table is coming next! OK, I'm dreaming even beyond the likelihood that such an audition would come off at all. :-)
Jimbo3,
Here's a source for mylar tape:

http://www.mccormicksnet.com/mccormicks/tapes.htm

Scroll down to the bottom of the page and look for "Mylar Streamers". The 1/2" wide size used by Teres/Redpoint/Galibier owners costs <$5 for a 100' roll and it comes in colors! Make sure your motor pulley is wide enough before you choose a size.

For cutting the ends and getting them square I bought a VCR tape splicer. It's never been out of the box. I found I can do an excellent job with a new #11 Xacto blade, a straightedge and a clean, flat working surface. It helps to be nearsighted, and no caffeine!

Some people use VCR splicing tabs but I've had better results with 1 mil x 2" clear 3M shipping tape. My splicing tabs always seemed to separate after awhile. My shipping taped belt is as good as the day I made it, seven or eight months ago.

If 1/2" black mylar will suit, I'll gladly make a belt up and ship it to you. Let me know the length you want if you're interested. Like Cello, my 100' roll should be enough for several lifetimes.