I have had the Raven AC-3 for 5 years and consider it a fine turntable.
I have read reports from various sources suggesting a 'darkish' or ''coloured'
character and can only assume that the set-ups in question were subjected to
structure-borne feedback?
If you are able to support the Raven on a sturdy wall-hung shelf (as I
have)....structure-borne feedback will not be a problem.
As good as I find the performance of the AC-3 to be....there are two tweaks
that raise it to another level IMHO.
Firstly.....the 3 motors produce an eccentric (and small) belt contact point on
the platter which always worried me?
By removing one of the motors and relying on two diametrically opposing
motors.....you create a much larger contact area for the belt on the platter
without the 'eccentricity' created by the 3 motors. And this is important if
using a 'belt' as opposed to a 'string-drive' or 'thread-drive'.
Incidentally I have tried both 'string-drive' and 'thread-drive' on the Raven but
its 'grippy' Delcrin platter material allows both thread and string to 'slip'. One
needs a metal platter I believe....to allow successful implementation of both?
The main problem with belt-drive TTs IMO....is their less than stellar 'constant
speed control' and immunity to 'stylus drag'?
In direct comparison with my Victor TT-101 DD turntable.....the two motors
on the Raven deliver a better performance in this regard than the 3 motors.
Secondly.....Thomas Woschnik recommends the Millennium turntable mat
without a record clamp and, after trying alternatives..... for the first four years
I ran the Raven in this configuration.
Again in direct comparison to the TT-101......I found that removing the mat
completely and resting the record directly on the copper top-plate with a
good brass or bronze record weight (not clamp).....the performance very
nearly matched the Victor in most respects.
With good arms and cartridges.....it is now hard indeed to hear the differences
in performance between my two decks.
I have read reports from various sources suggesting a 'darkish' or ''coloured'
character and can only assume that the set-ups in question were subjected to
structure-borne feedback?
If you are able to support the Raven on a sturdy wall-hung shelf (as I
have)....structure-borne feedback will not be a problem.
As good as I find the performance of the AC-3 to be....there are two tweaks
that raise it to another level IMHO.
Firstly.....the 3 motors produce an eccentric (and small) belt contact point on
the platter which always worried me?
By removing one of the motors and relying on two diametrically opposing
motors.....you create a much larger contact area for the belt on the platter
without the 'eccentricity' created by the 3 motors. And this is important if
using a 'belt' as opposed to a 'string-drive' or 'thread-drive'.
Incidentally I have tried both 'string-drive' and 'thread-drive' on the Raven but
its 'grippy' Delcrin platter material allows both thread and string to 'slip'. One
needs a metal platter I believe....to allow successful implementation of both?
The main problem with belt-drive TTs IMO....is their less than stellar 'constant
speed control' and immunity to 'stylus drag'?
In direct comparison with my Victor TT-101 DD turntable.....the two motors
on the Raven deliver a better performance in this regard than the 3 motors.
Secondly.....Thomas Woschnik recommends the Millennium turntable mat
without a record clamp and, after trying alternatives..... for the first four years
I ran the Raven in this configuration.
Again in direct comparison to the TT-101......I found that removing the mat
completely and resting the record directly on the copper top-plate with a
good brass or bronze record weight (not clamp).....the performance very
nearly matched the Victor in most respects.
With good arms and cartridges.....it is now hard indeed to hear the differences
in performance between my two decks.