Setting anti-skate


What is your procedure for setting anti-skate?

Thanks
rmaurin
...we need to figure out a final step which ACCURATLY provides the real adjustment.
Warjarret,
I think you're engaging in antiskate overkill. As I said above, there is no such thing as a perfect antiskate setting. The very notion is impossible and you've described the reasons why yourself. This search for ultimate "accuracy" is more hopeless than the search for the Holy Grail. It simply doesn't exist. It can't exist.

I think the only way to do this right, is by playing various test tones, and comparing right and left channel distortion on a distortion analyzer.
No test tones can accurately emulate the variable vinyl formulations, variable groove modulations and variable arm positions we encounter on real records. Why measure some theoretical value that bears only an accidental and occasional relationship to constantly changing real world conditions? What's the point?

Without this equipment, I agree that listening is the next best way.
No, it is a better way. The subtlest effects of excess antiskate would not even be detected by a distortion analyzer, since they have nothing to do with distortion or mistracking.

The physical effect of excess antiskate is a constraining lateral pressure on the cantilever/suspension interface. This dampens HF response and muffles microdynamics. Nothing to do with distortion. You'd have to set antiskate far WORSE before distortion began to occur.

Your ears and brain are capable of very subtle "measurements" if you trust them and train them. You may not be able to quantify the results, which I sense might bother you, but with practice you will hear the results and you will be able to repeat them. All the "roughing in" methods we've discussed tend to set antiskate too high. From there, reduce it until you get full HF extension and maximum microdynamics.

Then relax and enjoy the music. :-)
Doug
Dougdeacon..."I think you're engaging in antiskate overkill". You don't say! But isn't the audiophile hobby one big exercise in overkill? How about VTF scales that read out to 0.01gram?

As I mentioned before, for many years we got along with arms that had no antiskating: VTF had to be a bit higher. We agree that however you set it, antiskating is some kind of average value which works OK over most of the disc area. My research into antiskating adjustments, and all the other critical adjustments of a pivoting arm, led me to use a linear tracking arm, and the one I have does not exhibit the different problems that some say come with linear tracking.
Thanks for asking a great question, Rich! The answers here have shown me how to get that little extra from my rb300/rega. I hadn't really been that concerned about tweaking this set up to the nth degree. To keep it short, I've gone back through this method for AS and found that the rb300 was dialed a little high, that is, enough to see a clear deflection. After correcting to get back to almost no perceptible diflection I tweaked it back up just a tad. It did make a small, but noticeable improvement in dynamics and clarity.
Just my two cents.--Doug IS right!!I'm sure he knows that antiskate does impact sound,and of course we all want to adjust to "almost perfection".Yet it cannot be done,and the linear approach IS superior in my own experience,YET I agree that we are going a bit overboard and SHOULD really just enjoy the music.In my experience,antiskate is a GOOD thing,on the particular arms I have owned.Also,NO antiskate,on the linear trackers IS CLEARLY superior,amongst other reasons.Actually for those,like me,happy with what particular pivoting design they own,a word of advice-----"Do NOT make an attempt to hear a really good,high def set-up, using a very good linear tracker"!!There is no ratonalizing in this regard.A good linear tracker(like the Forsell/Air Tangent/Kuzma/Rockport/Walker,and maybe the NEW Cartridge Man "Conductor",which seems to be a bargain,if one is inclined to go that route)is in another class from our favorite pivots,"except maybe one"!And there is a guy,in Florida,who knows this!
A pain to maintain.Unless you have a cushy job,with lots of spare time,or retired,like my pal.NOT hard to maintain,but like keeping a good fishtank,a bit of a pain.Yet worth it.REALLY WORTH IT,and I can't hear my friend's unit anymore as he has gone to a unipivot,for convenience.The difference between "it" and the linear unit is like the difference between a nice Decca Dutch pressing,compared to a really good British pressing,Wide Band.One is dynamic,to the max,and a bit bright,with what seems to be alot of energy and detail.With a somewhat flatter soundstage presentation,and a touch of graininess,yet quite acceptable(Dutch).The other(English pressings)have a superb sense of relaxed ambience,with wonderful depth of stage,and very natural tonal characteristics.Simply put,more natural,like a good linear design!!That's my own take,which as you all know,is just opinion.Nothing more.

Best,
Mark
BTW,as to the .01 gm accuracy of the better(mandatory,actualy)digital guages..I can clearly hear the differences in such amall increments,on ALL of my friends' set-ups.As well as my own,which HAPPILY will be up and running(with a bunch of new "GIZMOS")in about a week or so.
If anyone feels the .01gm accuracy is not important,and I know you ultimately want to voice by ear,then it's time to re-think that particular system's resolution.
Best,and no disrespect meant to anyone in particular!

Mark
Eldartford and SirSpeedy,

My TriPlanar sounds alot better than my linear tracking HK/Rabco arms. Does that vote count? ;-)

I'm with Mark on the scale. I will defend my .01g VTF adjustments to the death! :-)