You need high current/voltage especially for large gauge speaker cables. Put on some Rap and crank it up for 48 hours.
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No matter how loud you're going to play it will only make a little difference since the current isn't still enough to break-in.
Most of the direction-specified speaker cables are already broke in using hing voltage/current sources.
You can create an adapter for AC socket for burning in speaker cables.
The rate of breakin is accelerated by higher power levels, but if that's not practical then just play the rig all day with a tuner source (or CD on repeat) when you're gone to work. You can temporarily wire the speakers out of phase & then place them facing each other to dim some of the racket.
Don't run any AC line voltage through a networked cable or even use a Duotech enhancer; the DC component will burn up the networks.
Expect reasonable results within 100 hours & completion around 200+ hours.
SAFELY ( notice that this is the very first word and the only one that is highlighted ) make up some adapters that will plug into the wall and then connect to your speaker cables. On the other end of your speaker cables, connect an adapter that feeds a light socket. Plug in a 150 watt flood lamp and let it shine for a few days. It is best if you can do each speaker cord with its' own light. Just be careful that all of your connections are solid and well insulated and remember that flood lights generate a LOT of heat. Don't point them at anything real close that is ignitable or lay them on top of anything combustible. A few days of treatment like this would be equivalent to weeks and weeks worth of actual playing time and should take the edge off of them. Sean
Volume settings in reality won't matter bro. You can play Rap with boomy bass or you can play some Trash Metal won't make a difference.
For a real break-in Sean is right. Through AC socket the 95% of break-in will occur almost instantly if connected to 150W bulb. So I think that just a few hours is good enough. After that you should realize that cable becomes directional and needs to be plugged into speaker binding posts properly as the current "travels" from hot wire to newtral.