How many watts do you really need?

@roadcykler Not me but the Gryphon company..,,

There is high-audio hype everywhere, not worth evaluating non-factual (vs measurable) claims. Doing so is not only unfruitful but creates indignate anger negative feelings. The only thing that is helpful is comparative review to get some relative sort of value. Life’s too short. Best to spend your time on positive things - like listening to great music. 

@kennyc I'm on your page Kenny c, understanding that you may not be totally in agreement with what I'm saying but at least like me you understand that extra wattage for headroom can protect the amp and the speaker that will keep everything running smooth sailing from clipping and distorting because of power demands from certain speakers. I also understand and I'm sure you do as well that an amplifier that is too powerful can also destroy your system and burn it OUT. But when I was speaking of high-power amplification I was speaking in terms of the Ultra-High-End Audiophile and what he is looking for in his system that is not Vacuum Tube powered. But for amplifiers that are like... D' AGOSTINO Class A/ AB and GRYPHON Class A/AB are producing for that market and level of AUDIOPHILE. Like you said you must match the amplifier to the speakers. And SUBJECTIVELY that's just my opinion on this subject of wattage and how much you really need. But I'm sure someone would beg to differ, and for that matter to each his own.

GOOD DAY AND PEACE TO ALL

@blackbird55 - I’m in agreement with you. Generally, don’t run high powered amps on highly efficient speakers as small volume control increases can send too much damaging power to the speakers in a hurry. Too little amp power to a lower efficiency speakers can lead to clipping and distortion when the amp is pushed too hard.

I run a 320wpc8Ω/460wpc4Ω Audionet Humboldt into a 89db Vimberg Mino D. I also plan to investigate low watt tube midrange magic amps starting with flea watt SET amps down to ~2wpc on my 100db Volti Rival (wattage verified by Greg Roberts). If I love tube Sonics, I may climb to better gear using my “imaginary” ample budget.

Professional sound level meters will do peaks.  You may not see it on screen because it is not displaying the sound level fast enough, but it will store the peak in memory for subsequent readout.

You can also record "L" values (e.g., "L5") which would be the sound level exceeded X% (e.g., 5%) of the time.  These are typically used in regulatory compliance.  For example, an ordinance may specify that the sound at the property line is not to exceed a level of 70 dB for 15 minutes per hour (L25), or 65 dB for 30 minutes per hour (L50).

The display shown here is in "Fast Response" with "Linear Weighting."

https://youtu.be/P1R2dKRDFUk

I am in the low watts camp.  When I lived in NYC Sound by Singer was my dealer and sometimes High End luminaries would be in the store; on one occasion it was Kevin Hayes of VAC.  At the time I had a Ren 70/70 in my VT home and a 30/30 in NYC.

He opined that (at the time) the 30/30 was his best sounding amp!  However, he could not make any money selling them as few people would pay enough for a 30 watt amplifier.

My speakers are 87 dB at 1 meter for 2.83 volts - 84+ dB at my listening position.  That is 2 watts into 4 ohms.  My 2A3 Elekit amp, good for almost 4 watts, allowed 87 dB - loud enough for most listening.  To forestall comments on the  3dB drop off between 1 and 3 meters the square law drop off is for point sources, radiating spherically, not cone drivers.

For a while I was using a C-J 62 Special Edition - that is a very good amp with many wonderful qualities, and I could blast Mahler but missed something that the 2A3s had.

I am now breaking in a PP 2A3 - good for 14 (gorgeous) watts and 90 dB plus of I want.  This amp is (probably) end game and I'll be posting about the journey to acquire the amp.