Battery Power at a Price Point


I’ve always believed that the best power is what comes directly out of the wall. For me, AC line conditioners have always sucked the life out of the music. I’ve tried a few conditioners but need to confess never tried anything in the thousand dollar and up category. My power consisted of dedicated 20amp circuits for each amplifier and a dedicated circuit for my digital front end. I remember the first listen to clean power when I added those dedicated circuits. The results were breathtaking to me. The old cliche of a quieter background, bigger soundstage, extended highs and deeper bass is how I’d describe what delivering cleaner power did for my system. I’m guessing to summarize what I did hear was simply a lower floor noise in my system. A lower floor noise just made everything sound better.

A 12v-48v lithium LiFePO4 battery and a “pure sine wave” inverter are very cost effective compared to what we spend on a piece of hardware in this hobby. LiFePO4 batteries have dropped significantly in price over the last couple of years and with the acceptance of solar power and more Bommers traveling in RV’s, the inverter market has grown exponentially. The threads I could find on this topic mentions very positive results using a battery to power their systems. The information on-line is somewhat limited and offer little if any comparison between inverters as well as how much inverter and battery does one needs to run their front end and amplifier(s).

I’m sure some of you think that by adding an inverter will add noise back into the system and you are correct. The only thing I can attest is that my system sounds cleaner and more articulate with the inverter and battery power compared to dedicated circuits off the grid.

It has been mentioned that to truly take advantages of what an off grid system can offer, your system needs to be somewhat resolving. My system consists of Harbeth loudspeakers driven by Quicksilver mono blocks. To complement the bottom end is a RSL subwoofer. My modest front end is comprised of a Topping linestage and DAC. 

My auxiliary components like FMC’s, network switch and renderer are all powered by aftermarket linear or SMPS with the exception of my M4 MacMini which is used as a streamer. I have a small fiber bridge located between switch and DAC. All music files are being processed with HQPlayer and JPlay to manage my music. All music files are streamed from Qobuz. 

Prior to investing in off-grid power, I discovered an on-line tread that I’ll link here describing how by simply powering a music system by a battery power station can transform things by getting your system clean power. These all-in-one power stations can be purchased through Amazon and they range from a few hundred bucks to a few thousand all depending on how much power one needs. 

By eliminating the power station’s fancy housing, power ports and interfaces and by putting together selected components, one can save a ton of money and get a better result. You’d pick and choose the inverter you want as well as battery capacity. Once you figure your components out, it will take you just minutes to connect everything up.

I decided to go the a la carte route. My initial thought was to get more inverter than what I actually need. More is always better mentality since if one has extra power, it’s good to have headroom in reserves. I quickly realized the drawback to overkill in this regard. A larger inverter consumes more power than a smaller one. Larger inverters need larger gauge cables and a bigger battery. Most inverters range from 200 watts to 5000 watts and above. Also make sure you use a “pure sine wave” and not a “modified sine wave inverter”. Pure sine wave inverters are designed for sensitive electronics where modified sine wave inverters are manufactured with a price point in mind and are normally used with things like power tools.

I decided to initially just to power my DAC and preamp off battery power. The reasoning was both financial and because my front end is physically separated from my amps and I wanted to take things slow at first. It would be easy to add a second off grid system for my amps at a later date. In fact it may be better having separate battery based systems to keep the digital separated from my amps. 

I needed to figure how much inverter I actually needed. My DAC and linestage consumed a whopping 2 watts at idle and 16 watts at full consumption. I made the decision to try a 250 watt inverter by Victron and a 600 watt inverter by Giandel, for both companies, their smallest offerings. The price for each inverter was $98 and $86 dollars respectively. Inverters come in two flavors, low and high frequency. The Victron was low and Giandel high. I wanted to compare both versions to see what sounded best to me. Just a quick note on Giandel and Victron. As mentioned earlier, the cost of these inverters are relatively inexpensive. I wanted to try the very best that I could find and the Giandel and Victron are two brands that always came out on top when educating myself with these devices.

Most inverters come in 12, 24, 36, and 48 volt variants. If I were going to power my amps, I would have opted for a 48 volt model. As you go up in power requirements, a 48 volt inverter makes sense as they are built and run more efficiently, requiring smaller cabling and run cooler. For smaller wattage requirements, 12 volts systems make sense due to cost consideration. 

After listening and comparing both low and high frequency inverters for just a few minutes, it was clear to me which variant I preferred. I did force myself to listen to both inverters for the better part of the day but things didn’t change and it was easy for me to pick a winner after playing just a couple tracks. Although the Giandel sounded better than my 20amp dedicated line from the grid, I preferred the sound of the Victron. The music when playing through the Victron just had more weight and body to it and it sounded a tad smoother. The Giandel did sound very good and for some it may sound better than the Victron in their system. The negative regarding the Victron is that the model I chose only has a single receptacle so I need to add one. The Giandel came with two. I ended up putting a couple JPS Labs receptacles in a metal box and attached it with an aftermarket power cord. I will note that I do have a ground to earth connection as back when I installed my dedicated circuits I installed a grounding rod. 

These inverters do have fans that should come on if the unit is working close to its limitations. In the time that I’ve been using them, I’ve never heard the fan engage. Some have mentioned that because Victron’s have a larger large internal transformer, they can hum. So far, my inverter has been dead quiet.

Up to this point, I’ve been using a 60ah lithium battery that I hijacked from my boat’s sonar. I wanted to try battery power before any real investment. I do have on order a 12v 100ah battery with Bluetooth monitoring from LiTime. I wanted a battery with Bluetooth monitoring so that I can monitor my battery level. From what I’ve researched, LiTime is a reputable company that makes good quality products. Batteries can be found for less but you want something that is manufactured at a higher standard. YouTube videos comparing various battery manufacturers were eye opening as some of the lesser known brands have less than satisfactory build quality standards in my opinion. Keep in mind that lithium batteries can be a fire hazard. 

A separate battery charger compatible with lithium batteries is needed to charge the battery once depleted. I’m using a Noco Genius 10A charger because I already owned one and I believe Noco makes some of the better battery chargers on the market. You can find more cost effective solutions. I disconnect the battery from the inverter when I charge the battery using a batter disconnect. Charging is done overnight as it takes roughly 6 to 8 hours to fully charge my 60ah battery.  

I can currently listen to music four to five hours a day and I can go days in between charges.

The benefits of off grid power for me is significant.

If I ever decide to power my Quicksilver Monos, I’d likely do a 48v 1200 watt system. I’m guessing the inverter, charger combined with battery would be in the $500- $700 price range. Most financial resources here are due to the cost of a 48v battery.

My Cost Breakdown to power my DAC and Line Stage:

Victron 12v/250 Inverter  $86

8awg wire; 6 feet plus ring connectors  $15

Li Time 100ah LiFePO4  $230

Noco Genius 10A charger  $100

Battery Disconnect  $15

All parts except 8 gauge wire purchase from Amazon. Wire from Home Depot. Putting things together is super easy with no prior electrical skills needed. The entire installation process should take less than 15 minutes. 

For those of you thinking about a dedicated circuit or for those where one is not feasible, this solution is a no brainer. It’s the best $446 dollars I’ve ever spend in this hobby. Give it a try. Improvements are not subtle!

islandflyfisher2

danmart, thanks for sharing your experiences. I see that you are using an Anker S2000, which is quite a large inverter. islandflyfisher2 had indicated that he thought that a larger inverter might make more noise, which is one reason he chose smaller inverters over one larger inverter. 

I am still working on putting together the parts to do the battery power setup. Major PITA with ordering from Amazon. So, I am turning to Walmart to source some items. 

My question for you is how the Anker S2000 is regarding noise. Is it making any noise? Does the fan run when you are powering the front end of the system? My room is very quiet and a buzz from an inverter would be a significant intrusion. I have been seeking two smaller inverters, but if one larger inverter is quiet, then that is an obvious good path. 

Seems like you are deeming the battery power option to be a success, but you want to tweak it regarding PC.I know exactly what you mean by your descriptions of the effects of various power cords on a component. I have that experience constantly as I build systems. It has gotten to the point that if I am hearing something I think needs a tonal fix, I know which brand of PC to put into the system to get the result I want. 

If I may make a suggestion, according to one of my Audiophile Laws, I suggest you not seek only one power cord but that you put in the time to assess entire sets of cables, as this will elevate your system dramatically, much more than swapping one power cord. By focusing on sets of cables, your system can be taken much higher in terms of performance. You have good gear, so it would be worth the time and money to pursue cables in a systematic fashion. Your system can reach a much higher performance level than you think, and the most obvious way to do so is through exploration of cable sets. 

I am not suggesting you spend on a level where the cables are in the price range of  the Hurricane PC, but that you gain consistency with cables across the system. Versus guessing and ad hoc collections of cables, (I am presuming that you are using an a mix of cables, given that you are asking about one PC)  it allows directed progress toward a goal as you will become familiarized with the characteristics of brands of cables. It's a lot of work and time, and not all audiophiles wish to go that deeply into it. However, it's very effective in elevating the system performance, imo as important as the components and speakers. If you don't want to do so for surround, you can isolate it to 2-channel listening. :)

If you are not willing to go that deeply into it, I suggest you procure no less than 3-4 power cables to try head to head. No one can tell you which PC will work in a system of mixed cables. They can guess, but the only proper solution is to get the cables and compare. Likely, in that scenario, a dark horse, unexpected PC will work best. I have used a lot of expensive sets of cables and a lot of expensive PCs, but as I work with cable sets - I currently use the Iconoclast brand in reviewing - the best PC for that brand is their own $200-ish PC. The complimentary nature of the set of cables with associated power cord is very strong. 

 

I’m happy to see others trying battery power regardless if it’s a power station or a separate inverter and battery. From what I’ve read, both options will give one a nice uptick in performance compared to a dedicated circuit off the grid. After communications from a couple inverter manufacturers, both encouraged me to use smaller inverters in their product line.

I was prepared to purchase models that produced three times my required power thinking a larger inverter would give me more headroom and overall better performance. I was informed by both companies that obtaining an inverter larger than I actually needed would consume more battery and generate more noise. They both advised me to spend less money and choose a smaller more cost effective model. I decided to run two smaller inverters giving me the ability to have two dedicated circuits separating my DAC and MicroRendu from switching mode power supplies that power switches, FMC’s and MacMini.

@douglas_schroeder, regarding noise, the only time I have ever heard the inverter fan run was when I plugged the PC into charger the unit. Fortunately, I live alone and my system is in a separate room, so it has not been an issue for me. As in cables, I have a full loom of Audience Front Row XLRs, so the system is very revealing. I guess feeding my front end with dirty power is beneficial. To tell you the truth, it's only certain songs the bass is shy. With the use of the S2000, I'm hearing the music- fast & precise. However, I guess it comes down to the engineer who was @ the board that day. LOL

To finish up. I do find using the S2000 beneficial. YMMV

danmart123, ah, good that you are using a loom of cables! I'm seeing great benefit from the battery power schema, as well, as I am about to recount... 

Thank you to islandflyfisher2 for sharing his experiences with off-grid power! Last night was the first run with my battery/inverter,Noco setup - and it easily passes my Law of Efficacy! In fact, it's one of the best bang for the buck upgrades I have ever done in 40 years in this hobby! 

The parts were coming in piecemeal from Amazon and I had a horrible experience with orders getting cancelled; I was told it is a vendor issue. Go figure; I purchased a pair of Emotiva Nostala Lb12 Speakers - Which I am seeking for the novel 5" soft dome midrange. Heard them at AXPONA; they will replace my Wharfedale Opus 2-M2, which have 3" soft dome mid- on the same credit card, but a $100+ transaction on the same card, same day, was repeatedly refused by Amazon. OK, later with Amazon.

Go to Walmart super center where they have the Noco 10 and their brand of 1,500Watt inverter. I saw the advice regarding smaller inverters but thought, "Why not try?" I am big on actually trying setups rather than prejudging them. I bought them, headed home and hooked up the lithium battery (that did come through amazon, the same one that islandflyfisher2 has, to the Noco and the inverter. 

Ooops, forgot to put the add-on fuses atop the battery. But why? The components have fuses. Forget the battery top fuses. (But YOU do what you want; I'm not going to be liable for anyone skipping fuses. That's a do at your own risk maneuver). I also didn't put the on/off switch into the chain because I wanted to test the 1500 Watt inverter for noise. Dead as the grave silent! Perfect! No downside I can hear at all. 

So, my chain - again, not recommending anyone skip fuses, as islandflyfisher2 has shown them on the battery - is simple: 12V 100Ah lithium battery, Noco 10, and Walmart's Ever Start Power Inverter 1,500 Watt (3 outlets). 

I am guessing the sound improvement is superior to having the switch and the fuses in the chain. IT'S GLORIOUS! Super-happy with this outcome! I will be adding this as a segment in the second edition of my book, The Audiophile Laws, as one of the most economical and beneficial methods for upgrading the front end of the system. 

Beware a potential problem when seeking a larger inverter and using it for multiple power cords. To my surprise, I found that when I tried to put all three front end components' power cords into the outlets of the Ever Start's grouped outlets, only two power cords would fit because the housings are custom and too fat to fit 3 of them. Consequently, I kept one open outlet between them and only was able to use two of the three components (PS Audio AirLens streamer and TEAC VRDS-701 CD/DAC/Pre) with the setup. I am using an all Iconoclast cable loom, and the power cords are the Belden PCs sold by Iconoclast. 

I have kept the order for the Victron 250W Inverter from Amazon intact. I will also hook that up to the battery, and I will be able to also run the TEAC CG-10M-X clock with the battery, too, with the Victron's single outlet. 

My splendid result has come despite the 10M clock sitting idle. I also must switch between the three front end components to see which combo of two is best. 

STRONG favorable endorsement of the method! Very appreciative of islandflyfisher2 brining this to the forum!  :)

My fun with this upgrade is just beginning. I am now enjoying the Kingsound King III electrostatic speakers with the battery/inverter front end. But I have other speakers and configurations to run. I know they will all be stepped up nicely with this method. 

Last thought: Two strong impressions in listening just from one session; the texture and improved dynamics of LF is wonderful! But perhaps my favorite effect is that older recordings and ones with a great deal of silence make the performer's voices and instruments pop. This is a wonderful upgrade to pull forward quieter recordings for more appreciation!