To LP Listeners: Fozgometer Experiences...


I am considering purchasing a Fozgometer V2 to verify/improve my cartridge’s azimuth.

Questions:

  1. Which Fozgometer do you own – V1 or V2?
  2. Did you find it easy to use?
  3. Which Test LP did you use (the AP “analogue Test LP” is recommended)?
  4. Did it make a meaningful difference in the set-up of your cartridge?
  5. Did it make a meaningful difference in the SQ of your LPs?

Thanks in advance for sharing your experiences.

 

 
 
inagroove

@bimmerlover 

"It’s been interesting to see that the seems to be two types of responses to this OP, basically 180 degrees apart.

One stating that the azimuth is not a big factor when it comes to sound quality (unless it’s way out of alignment) AND it’s not hard to get it visually in alignment, and at the other end of the scale, then the other camp stating it’s very important and tools are needed to get it right."

Yeah, especially when you want to spend good money on test equipment, you're hardly ever going to use.

 

 

devinplombier,

I haven’t personally tried the method described by Faustus, but from a purely theoretical standpoint, the model itself may make sense.

That said, before concluding that it truly works, I would still apply the old principle that practice is the criterion of truth — and verify it experimentally with a Fozgometer.

Here’s how I would approach it.

First, I would use the Fozgometer to make sure the device indicates a perfectly centered azimuth position. Then I would switch the preamp into mono mode while playing a test record and carefully verify what actually happens in the channels, confirming that this indeed corresponds to the optimal azimuth position.

After that, I would intentionally introduce a very small and controlled azimuth deviation in a known direction — for example, enough for one channel to show +0.4 and the other correspondingly -0.4. In other words, I would deliberately move slightly away from the ideal azimuth center.

Then I would repeat the mono listening test and try to hear whether any leakage, artifacts, or residual signal begins appearing in the expected left or right channel.

If artifacts appear where previously there was complete silence, then yes — that would strongly suggest the method is actually valid and practically useful.

But if no audible artifacts appear at all despite the measurable azimuth deviation on the phase meter, then that tells us something important as well: namely, that the method may not provide meaningful real-world precision because its informational threshold lies beyond either human hearing or the resolving capability of the playback chain itself.

At the same time, I wouldn’t make the mistake of assuming that “if we cannot hear the 0.4 difference, then this deviation doesn’t matter.”

As I mentioned earlier, azimuth adjustment is very similar to focusing a camera lens. For perfect focus, there is only one exact position. Once maximum sharpness is achieved, even a tiny movement in either direction immediately softens the image. Move the focus ring slightly left or right — the image blurs.

The same thing happens with sound.

And realistically, achieving that exact “focus point” without instrumentation is highly unlikely, because the goal is not to make the stylus body visually perpendicular — the goal is to place the actual needle perfectly in the groove.

The stylus itself may not be mounted perfectly on the cantilever.

The cantilever may not be perfectly aligned relative to the cartridge body.

The cartridge body may not sit perfectly in the headshell.

The headshell itself may have microscopic tolerances.

Each deviation may only be measured in microns, but together they accumulate into a meaningful stylus misalignment.

That’s why I eventually moved away from purely visual tools and templates. For about seven years I used traditional alignment methods, but later switched to AnalogMagik, which I still use today. And honestly, the appearance of that software was a genuine revolution.

Because despite the importance of azimuth, there are other equally critical parameters — especially VTA and tracking force. And this is where things become extremely interesting.

Traditionally, cartridge setup used to follow a fairly rigid formula:

  • make the tonearm parallel to the record,

  • set tracking force according to the cartridge manufacturer’s recommendation,

  • then fine-tune azimuth and anti-skate.

That was considered “correct.”

But in reality, VTA and tracking force interact with each other. Some cartridges clearly perform better with the rear of the tonearm slightly raised. In that case, increasing tracking force slightly may improve stylus geometry in the groove. Other cartridges prefer a slightly lower arm position, where a lighter tracking force becomes optimal.

So what you actually end up with is an equation involving both VTA and tracking force simultaneously.

And once you hear the result, you realize that even one tenth of a gram changes the sound significantly. What makes this even more complicated is that two cartridges of the exact same model may still behave differently due to small production variations in suspension compliance.

That changes optimal tracking force.

Which changes stylus angle.

Which changes effective VTA behavior.

And this is precisely where AnalogMagik becomes incredibly powerful, because it optimizes these parameters sequentially and interactively rather than treating them as isolated adjustments. Without that kind of analytical feedback, arriving at the true optimum purely empirically is, in my opinion, practically impossible.

So for me, cartridge setup with AnalogMagik and cartridge setup without it are essentially two completely different worlds. I’ve personally seen extremely experienced vinyl enthusiasts — people with 40 years in analog playback, repairing tonearms, building phono stages and amplifiers — initially react very skeptically to the software.

Their attitude was basically:

“What could this program possibly know that my ears don’t after 40 years?”

But after actually trying it, many of them ended up saying:

“I honestly didn’t expect this level of improvement.”

And I think the reason is exactly this: the software finds combined optimization points that often differ from what visually appears “correct” to us. That takes cartridge setup far beyond the old standard routine of: tonearm parallel to the record, tracking force by the manual, azimuth centered, anti-skate adjusted so the inner groove doesn’t mistrack, and done.

So those are my thoughts on phase meters and azimuth adjustment.

Disclaimer: I don’t sell AnalogMagik and I don’t sell anything on this forum. I just give private free consultations how to improve the sound of any High End system.

The reason why some people believe vinyl cartridges absolutely must be adjusted with instruments to extremely precise values, while others claim that small deviations are insignificant, is actually very simple.

In many cases this has less to do with hearing itself and much more to do with system sensitivity.

And system sensitivity, in turn, very often depends on something as simple as speaker placement.

Here is the most basic example. If your system — regardless of price category — is placed in a living room where:

  • the speakers are pushed directly against the wall,

  • a large TV sits between them,

  • the equipment rack is also positioned between the speakers,

    and generally the entire setup follows the typical “living room layout” that most people use…

…then I can almost guarantee that you will not hear tiny stylus alignment deviations, even if the azimuth is noticeably off.

Why?

Because with that type of placement, precise soundstage focus is fundamentally impossible to begin with. The acoustic image is already heavily compromised simply by skeakes' placement.

Now take that exact same system - literally identical equipment - and place it in a room where:

  • the speakers stand about 3–5 feet (1–1.5 meters) away from the rear wall,

  • there is nothing large between the speakers,

  • the equipment rack is kept low so it does not interfere with the sound field between the speakers.

Now suddenly the entire situation changes.

At that point, even relatively small azimuth deviations become much easier to hear because the system begins producing an actual holographic soundstage with instrument localization and precise center focus.And once that level of spatial precision appears, cartridge alignment becomes dramatically more important.

So even something this elementary can divide people into completely opposite camps on the subject.

And importantly, this often has nothing to do with musical taste, years of audiophile experience, technical knowledge, or intelligence. Sometimes people fully understand that speakers ideally should have 5–6 feet behind them — but due to room geometry, family realities, furniture constraints, or apartment limitations, they simply cannot place them that way. And in those situations, yes — small azimuth deviations may genuinely become almost impossible to hear.

So discussions about cartridge precision often become misleading because people are unknowingly listening under completely different acoustic conditions.

In fact, if we are talking about a truly high-end system — meaning a properly positioned setup with a genuinely resolving analog front end — then the amount of variables involved in vinyl playback goes far beyond cartridge alignment, VTA, azimuth, or tracking force. At that level, literally everything matters — including what the turntable itself is standing on.

And rather than turning this discussion into pure theory without practical examples, I’m going to post several links in my thread to test vinyl transfers that people can download and listen to on their own systems.

Audiogon Discussion Forum

@oldrooney 

Over a decade ago I started digitizing my LPs. I wanted a good ADC. I purchased the one that was the best at that time, the Benchmark ADC1.  It was expensive, about $1K. It was later that I discovered I could also perform measurements. 

The ADC1 has a USB out. I run a USB cable from the ADC1 to my Windows computer. The REW software will recognize it as an input device. And then you are off and running. I use the Spectrum option in the REW RTA function. For initial measurements, I use a fast sweep with middling resolution. For final measurement, I use a high sample sweep and a huge amount of averages. Even this measurement takes less than a minute. But I do enjoy the realtime aspect as I can set  all kinds of things while watching the system response on the computer monitor. I don't have an expensive tower computer. I use a $1K Lenovo garden variety Windows 11 computer. Plain vanilla. 

REW is an incredible tool and it is free!. Anyone serious about making measurements of their gear, should get and learn how to use REW.

You'll need at least 24/96 performance and 32/192 would be even better, but 16 bits will not allow you to see fine details.

The ADC1 is no longer made. Used ones do become available, but cost about as much as I paid new. There are other very capable ADCs available today new. 

There are numerous ADCs available for ripping LPs. I have not used any of them.

I have tried some of the more esoteric ones, such as the Cosmos, but I keep coming back to the ADC1. 

Using a scope for alignment is a very good way to do it. However, nulls can sometimes be 1mV or less, which is somewhat difficult to see on a scope. Using an ADC allows one to peer deeper into your signals. My noise floor is less than -120dBV (120 dB below 1 Volt).. Signals can be as high as needed, up to the saturation of the source. This is a huge dynamic range.

You can get your feet wet using an inexpensive ACD1. Even if the results are crummy, you will learn what you need to improve sensitivity and you'll become familiar with making these measurements. There is no better way to learn how to do these measurements than doing it by yourself, learning all the way. I am still refining my setup and test methods. I consider my test equipment as valuable as my stereo gear and treat them that way.

 

When I first jumped into this thread, I'd forgotten that @colossalsound had already solicited all the members in another thread. Agenda? Well anyway, apparently the individuals using photography as an example obviously know nothing about that hobby either. For instance @colossalsound said "As I mentioned earlier, azimuth adjustment is very similar to focusing a camera lens. For perfect focus, there is only one exact position.". Yes, if it's only a single static frame and even then, under controlled conditions you have to make sure the fixed lighting you're using has a special power supply to compensate for the variations in line voltage fluctuations because it will change the intensity of the light which will affect exposure, shutter speed, f stop and ultimately your focus while you're setting up your shot. He didn't even mention depth of field! Vinyl is not a still photograph but a moving picture with infinitely more variables thrown in as well. What if your 180-gram album just ended and you plop on a record that is only 110 grams, do you recalibrate the tonearm?

Start with the laquear which is poured over machined aluminum discs from a string of overhead nozzles much like chocolate is poured over Snickers bars as they roll down the assembly line. Do you think that each Snickers bar gets precisely the same volume of chocolate of the same thickness and that each candy bar weighs exactly 1.86 ounces after it's wrapped?

If you playback a vinyl record that was cut to lacquer and you have VU or power meters sensitive enough and read down far enough, and no matter how flat that slab of vinyl you're playing appears the pointers bounce continuously away from their left hand stops constantly (as the stylus traces the unmodulated grooves) at the smallest possible increments. Try that again with a slab of vinyl at least approximately the same weight and apparent flatness cut using the DMM process and see what you observe. That's just a single aspect.

Consider the groves themselves, on a stereo record the left channel is cut at a 45-degree angle to the left of the vertical and the right channel is cut 45 degrees to the right of the vertical. Like the cutting head the stylus and cantilever have to move simultaneously up and down and side to side to traverse the minute features of the groove which can be as small as a micron or smaller. Then consider the cartridge in the head shell and the disparity of both the lateral and vertical forces imposed by the tonearm. Check out some phono cartridge bench test reviews sometime, you can easily see that the cartridge's vertical and horizontal frequency response, separation and distortion numbers have little in common with each other except at 1Khz which may be between .5 and 2 dB which are design centers manufactures want to aspire to. I could go on and on like this but I think you get the picture. Is absolute precision a means to an end or a very good rough approximation? It's never been a perfect format to begin with.