Interconnects with Step up transformer

I have used a selection of Signal Wire Types between the SUT's Out and the Phonostage. The same is also done between the Phon' and Pre-Amp.

The common directive is to use a short length Cable between the SUT Out and the Phon'. I have tried an identical cable at a selection of lengths for this role and am not convinced there is an audible difference easily detectable. Shorter length, might be on paper, an improved electronic interface?

Additionally, I have also experienced other designs for a signal path on a Tonearm I am very familiar with.

The Tonearms Internal Wand Wire, has been experienced as a continuous length from the cartridge tag through to the RCA connectors. This method does create a end sound that impresses when compared to a design using a non-continuous wite which has connections using low quality connections. The continuous wire design is a fragile method for managing the long-term security of the wire, damage is easily produced. The attraction is the bypassing of typical connections, which are omitted from the wire's signal path. The design will improve the perception of the end sound created.

Due to the fragility and damage risk of adopting the continuous wire. I have recently been demo'd the same signal wire for the signal path design, but keeping a DIN Connection in use. A non-continuous signal wire, with a break along the Cable route, which uses high-quality pure copper connections, is proving to not be audibly detrimental to the end sound produced. Comparisons using a subjective evaluation strongly suggest that using quality pure copper connections along a signal path does not create a difference to the end sound that is noticeable and will not be a concern. Especially where an attempt is made to keep the most accurate end sound desired.  The non-continuous wire method produces a design that is going to substantially reduce the fragility and risk of incurring damage that is in place when adopting the continuous wire method. I am an advocate of the signal wire type used, and am today an advocate of the adoption of using a lesser fragile design for the tonearms wand wire signal path.

In conjunction with considering a tonearm wire signal path.  A substantial impression of betterment is able to be generated when using a high-quality Copper low mass RCA connection. When these connection types are adopted for both the cable connection and the chassis connection. This is, in my assessment, the most impressive impact on the end sound I have met for the Tonearm in question. 

@chrisocr 

"Interconnects with Step up transformer"

What does the manufacturer of your SUT recommend? It would stand to reason that you would want an interconnect's transfer function to not alter what they've specified. Specifically, I would choose one from a manufacturer that has the lowest capacitance and inductance as possible, though you'll probably be hard pressed to find one that's reputable enough to accurately state such specifications let alone give you any specs at all other than marketing hype.

Wow , appreciate the informative responses. My rega turntable does not have a DIN connection so the cable is fixed to the RB330 tone arm , and I see Rega sells the same interconnect that can be used throughout the signal chain , I believe the cable is called Rega connect 3 cable made by the same UK company that supplies to Rega to use in their tonearms , now I myself have heard a sound change when swapping out the cable out from SUT to my parasound jc3 plus , and from the parasound to rogue audio preamp I’m using a kimber Carbon cable , now onto would love to use the same carbon cable on my SUT but it’s not insulated so hum will occur . Using three different cable brand in my analog chain does not make sense to me . 

The overriding consideration is the capacitance of the cable itself. The goal is to keep it under 100pf. Longer single ended cables with capacitance higher than this could cause high frequency roll-off depending on the other capacitances in the phono signal path. Brand mixing does not matter.

Nominal cable capacitance is 30pf/ft, limiting length to 3 ft or less. I use Belden 1505A cable, a video cable. Capacitance is 17pf/ft. I limit my phono section cable lengths to less than 2 ft. I typically measure a capacitance of 50pf or less, including connectors.

If you DIY your cables, this is an easy result. If you don't, I would find out or measure this value for other single ended cable types.

The above argument is strictly true for mm cartridges, but is also important for mc cartridges as well. See the Hagerman discussion referenced below.

The output of the phono preamp does not need such low capacitance. I would advise though, to keep the capacitance of that cable and all other single ended cables to less than 150pf. Balanced cables can be far longer.

Hagerman has a great cable loading discussion on the website.

@chrisocr 

"Wow , appreciate the informative responses. My rega turntable does not have a DIN connection so the cable is fixed to the RB330 tone arm , and I see Rega sells the same interconnect that can be used throughout the signal chain , I believe the cable is called Rega connect 3 cable made by the same UK company that supplies to Rega to use in their tonearms , now I myself have heard a sound change when swapping out the cable out from SUT to my parasound jc3 plus , and from the parasound to rogue audio preamp I’m using a kimber Carbon cable , now onto would love to use the same carbon cable on my SUT but it’s not insulated so hum will occur . Using three different cable brand in my analog chain does not make sense to me ."

It should always be easy to hear the differences between other manufacturer's components in the signal chain, just confirms that nothing in between them is altering the signal in any way. Interconnect, speaker cables and power leads shouldn't alter the sound in any way though most hobbyists want to believe they do. The Rega Couple 3 you mentioned in your post and I underlined, would not be a bad choice. It's made of very high-quality ingredients from Klotz and Neutrik, is very well assembled and should last as long as you'd ever want it to. I have two pair of the long-discontinued Couple 2 as well as one pair of the Couple 3. They do exactly what's written on the can which is very little and except when I'm in the mood to mix and match components in my system I mostly forget about them.