VPI non-Anti Skate Q


I'm sure this Q has been discussed before, but I haven't seen an answer.


I see most brands using Anti Skate as protection from damage to both LP and stylus. VPI is the only brand I see not using it, as they have a different approach that their arms naturally provide anti-skate force.


My Q for VPI Signature 21 using Fatboy Gimbal 10-3D Tonearm: would not using anti-skating be perfectly safe for stylus and LP, same as to other brands who use anti-skate?

Thanks a lot!

mard

I also found my SME 3009’s tracking force markings and corresponding anti-skate notches to be accurate (actual force???)

https://sme.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/MODEL_3009_SERIES_II_IMPROVED_INSTRUCTION_BOOK.pdf

There is a presumption of precision, whereas, my long Russian arm has a weight on a string; a notched rod; a wire with a coil of alternate positions, and you are on your own to get it right.

MANY/MOST other arms, using modern digital scale, the dials for tracking weight are NOT dependable, and the corresponding anti-skate dial, including my Acos Lustre GST-801 Magnetic controls are not accurate or consistent.

I recently found, my Vintage JVC Victor UA-7082 arm: both the tracking weight markings correspond with my digital scale, and the delicate, nearly infinite anti-skate spring also (it’s corresponding marks, who knows what force?) to work quite well. I an bewildered by how an internal spring can be this old and remain accurate.

 

lewm,

"Please define factory settings for SME. "  The ones I have worked with have a string and weight arrangement and a scale with markings.  Set the string on the Antiskate scale to correspond with the VTF.

"For Technics, how would one determine 50% of recommended settings?"  They have a dial with numbers which correspond with VTF in grams.  So, for example, if you set VTF at 2 grams, Technics recommends that you set the dial at 2.  I am finding that number high and suggest setting it at 1.  At least to start.  Admittedly I haven't tried every cartridge and there is variation, so this is a starting point.

"And what about the many well loved vintage and even modern tonearms that still use a string and weight or a rigid lever and weight (e.g., my Kenwood, Dynavector, Triplanar, and Reed tonearms) to set AS?  There are no settings, as such."

I have not set up a Triplanar since obtaining AnalogMagik.  In light if my earlier experience with at least 2 different versions, although I find them to be a challenge to work with, they are exceptional sounding arms and I would be surprised if following their recommendations would be anything but accurate.  Kenwood, it has been almost 20 years since I last played with one, but again a wonderful TT.  But I am out of date.  Zero experience with Reed or Dynavector.  Given their reputation, if I were to address one, I would be inclined to set it up in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and give it a listen.  If I hear anything tizzy, a technical term I am sure you are familiar with, back off AS a smidge and listen again.  

Generally, it seems as though the AS force imposed on a lot of TTs is higher than needed.  It is a problem.  Another problem, a much bigger one believe me, is the dirty stylus syndrome.  It never ceases to amaze me that a guy will want me to check his stylus for wear and before I can begin we have an excavation project to uncover the diamond, buried as it is under so much debris.  Very often this stuff is very encrusted and resistant to removal.  I am not telling you about $50-$100 cartridges either, no Atlas and Anna and like that.  

 

I am sure you know that aligning by the cantilever, while a good idea, does not in any way cure zenith error, because a zenith error, besides being created by misalignment of the cantilever per se, is also created by errors in mounting the stylus at the factories ...

Of course. But aligning the cantilever still helps minimize the error, and it gets me to a good starting point so that alignment can be further refined with test tracks. Also, a compromise is often what's required. If you align solely to the stylus and not the cantilever, that can have an affect on the alignment to the cartridge's coils.

In retrospect I saw that you did mention stylus installation error. Apologies for that. But given the fact of stylus installation error, aligning the cantilever might by chance make zenith error worse  (or better if you’re lucky).

Relevant to the alignment of stylus to cantilever maybe things are getting better?  Has anyone else noticed that in the past year or two the alignment of stylus to cantilevers seems to have improved?  Almost across the board I am seeing better alignment recently.