Turntable Right Channel Dropping Out; Grounding Cartridge Body Brings It Back


I’m running an old Numark Pro-TT1 DJ-Style turntable which I have modified in the following ways:

(1) Added a switch to toggle between Signal and Chassis Ground (to solve a Ground Loop issue with another cartridge)

(2) Falling Weight type of Anti-Skate

(3) Balanced Tonearm XLR Cable made for me by a company in England (I think it was Iota)

(4) Added a new ‘The Vessel’ cartridge with an elliptical stylus on an aluminum cantilever. 
 

(5) Replaced the original tonearm wires with Cardas clear tonearm wires,

I’m currently using an ELAC Alchemy phono stage that has balanced inputs; but I’m going out from it on unbalanced RCA cables to my McIntosh C100 preamp. The input on the McIntosh preamp can be configured as either a Moving Magnet phono input or an Auxiliary input; I’m using it as an AUX input. The C200 passes the signal to two MC252 stereo power amps. Each power amp is bridged to mono so that they operate as monaural amplifiers. 

There are pictures and descriptions in my profile. 

Currently, there is a ‘breakout box’ of sorts installed on the unbalanced line for the purpose of taking voltage readings and oscilloscope traces while using my Analog Production’s Ultimate Test Record to dial in my new cartridge.

What’s driving me nuts is that while I’m listening to music, I suddenly realize I’m not hearing anything from my right channel. I can see the needles moving on the ‘big, beautiful blue’ gauges on the MC252, but the voltage on the multimeter (if connected) is way down, and there is no trace on my old analog Tektronic oscilloscope. Eventually, the signal on all indicators fades to zero confirming what I’m already (not) hearing. 
 

But, if I touch my stylus brush to either side of the cartridge body that is metal, I hear a brief, fairly loud, hum from the right speaker. After that the system works fine again. Sometimes the problem comes back on the next side, but after a few cycles of this ‘hum draining’ exercise, the system is good to go for as long as I care to listen, two or three hours, usually. 
 

I can touch the metal cartridge with my finger, but that doesn’t generate the hum or bring my system back. It’s only when I touch, or when my stylus brush touches, both the cartridge and the headshell that the hum is generated and the system’s function is restored. 
 

Does anyone know, or have an idea, of what is going on here? I have another identical Numark turntable that still has its original unbalanced RCA cabling, and to which I have performed the same modifications (except the grounding switch), it has none of these problems. Am I forced to revert from a balanced to an unbalanced interconnect? Why? What is going on? Anyone know?

oldrooney

@richardbrand Thank you for responding. (I chuckled at your reply to Elliott Necomb above.) Yes, it certainly seems your electrical diagnosis is correct. The same thought has occurred to me. I’m going to have to remove The Vessel cartridge to verify, but I believe the top of the cartridge is plastic. The stylus insert’s exterior is plastic. The only metal part is under the black plastic on top and behind the red stylus plastic in front. The cartridge mounts with bolts and nuts, so there is no metal-to-metal contact at that point. 
 

So . . . I’m wondering if the metal portion is acting more as a shield than as a conductor; and that, as a shield, it needs a connection to ground. I would need to provide that connection, at least to the cartridge. 
 

The tonearm has a 5th black wire that provides the ground into the tube. That is to say, the wire is connected to ground at the same terminus as the grounding wire on the interconnect— the wire that runs back to the screw on the case of the phono stage. [Edit: The switch may interpose here, bringing 100 Ohm lift in and out of circuit, not sure, need to check, see more below.] At the ELAC phono stage I can choose betwen either a screw labeled ‘signal’ and one labeled ‘chassis’.  The other end of the black wire , as I said, disappears into the rear of the arm tube at the bearing end and does not appear at the connector at the cartridge end of the tube. My Ohm meter tells me the connection from the wire in the plinth to the front portion of the tube is good. I don’t think the front portion of the tube is electrically connected to the tonearm tower or bearing, see below. 
 
The shielding of the tonearm wires inside the plinth (if the term applies) is interesting. A short length (2-3”) of bare ‘woven’ shielding (the kind that resembles so-called Chinese handcuffs, in which tugging at the ends shrinks the cross-section, in the ‘handcuffs’ tightening down on each finger inserted into the ends) which is soldered to the same ground wire potential as the aforementioned ‘black wire’ above, and, at the other end, is secured to the tonearm tower. This coonection scheme, in my opinion allows the ‘shield’ to serve as both a shield and a conductor. Somewhere in there (I would have to open it up again), there is a 100 Ohm resistor that ‘lifts’ the signal ground from the chassis ground.  
 

I think I might need to investigate this aspect of the grounding. The purpose of the switch I added on my first go-round with this turntable was to allow me to switch from chassis to signal ground at the turntable and give myself the same choice at the turntable as I had at the phono stage. 
 

Finally, you are right about some cartridges using one of the pins for grounding. The ‘ground strap’ for the left channel (-) signal (blue wire) on the Stanton cartridge is exposed and labeled ‘GND’. The same (necessary) connection may be required by The Vessel, but the connection is hidden within the body. I guess I could break out my Ohm meter to investigate. 

@richardbrand 

that’s paying attention to the true meaning of things!

Or, is it the true nature of things?

@oldrooney 

A few suggestions -

1. Since tapping the cartridge can fix the problem, try taking the stylus assembly out of the cartridge, and then put it back in, making sure its snug.
 

2. On the tonearm - if you have rewired the tonearm internally with Cardas wire, it is highly possible you have melted the inside of the tonearm bayonet fitting that the headshell goes into, that would explain the sticky pins. Those bayonet fittings do not take heat at all, and are easily damaged, given that the Cardas needs very high temperature to solder properly, it's a recipe for disaster. On some vintage arms that I have had with sticky pins I have successfully freed them up by spraying CRC lubricant into the fitting and pushing the pin in and out ( gently ). The CRC evaporates off.

I would also check the tonearm earth for continuity at each point along the path.

Another simple test to see if there are any dry solder joints, which can also cause these problems, particularly on the earth leg, is to simply wiggle the cables ( with low volume ) to see if you can induce the problem.