I agree with the carpathian. I have had several older class A/B amps die recently. Not worth fixing. Im 77 almost 78. Been using class D for over a decade. Icepower (which I have) or Hypex, both excellent choices, but Schitt is excellent and may comfort your anxiety HTH
Noob! Please help me replace my old power amp, some candidates listed.
ME
Elderly, lifelong guitarist, I have a few well maintained tube amp circuits (JTM45; overbuilt "double" 5E3 1x12 combo; 5F1 1x12 combo; Weber speakers and NOS tubes). I am NOT audiophile.
MY HiFi GEAR
Yamaha M1 (1984) power amp (this is what I'm wanting to improve on)
Kenwood Basic C1 preamp
TC-750LC phono pre (regulated supply)
Pioneer PL-A450 turntable; Denon DL-110 MC cart (yay!)
ADS L710 pair (6 ohm, 94db)
ADS L1090 pair (8 ohm, 90db)
Sansui SP-2500 pair (8 ohm, 100db)
iPad (DAC)
MY MUSIC SOURCES
FLAC library on Plex server over Wifi or 1000BaseT
Vinyl
MY APPLICATION
Small room, up close, not much conditioning but hope to add some.
I love electric blues, jazz, soul, pop and country but touch on everything. I play electric blues and love '70s fusion.
Looking to replace my dicey old power amp.
In general I like more reveal but I don't like "clinical" hifi, I have cheap but surprsingly effective Mackie active monitors that do that. Obviously I'm budget concious, lol!
MY AMP CANDIDATES
Audio by Van Alstine (AVA) MOS-FET 150B
Early '80s and all original; $500 used; class a/b; 75w/ch; gorgeous "servicable" layout/build quality; conventional transformer
B&K (BK Components) ST-140
Early '80's usually all original; $300-$400 used; class a/b; 70w/ch (kinda confusing revision history)
AVA NP-1
$1200 new, $800 used; class a/b; 55w/ch; I assume surface mount
Buckeye Hypex NCx252MP
$625 new; class D; 150w/ch; surface mount (board swap repair only)
Class D Audio USA Premium GaN 3.5
$750 new; class D; 135w/ch; surface mount (board swap repair only)
Admittedly class D makes me nervous but I'm open if the hype is even somewhat justified. I will do a tube amp eventually, but today I just want to plug in a new-to-me SS power amp. I'd do a Zen Triode but I might not live long enough, lol!
Brand new here so I hope I'm doing this right? Thanks!
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Hello caseylol, I can relate and went through something similar. Acquired some nice vintage gear, got it fixed as best I could. But there are limits. One exception is speakers, and I have a pair of 40 year old ADS 1290. I upgraded (at considerable cost) to PMCs, but after serving, the ADS speakers still sound amazing. I haven't tried class D, but in my system getting an external DAC made a huge difference. You don't need to spend a fortune, for instance Schiit modi+ is great and mimir is reportelly even better. Good luck |
Casey: I own the larger B&K amp (150 wpc . . . it’s >30 yrs old & working great) which, like the ST-140, uses mosfets for power. Though some criticize mosfets as less than ideally resolving (they harp on the "mosfet fog"), I beg to differ--music that isn’t hyped in the upper midrange and low treble to insinuate "resolution" simply sounds more like music. So I say if you can get the B&K, do it, revisions be damned. I, too, do all my listening in a relatively small (13’ x 13’) home office using a nearfield configuration. With listening as close up as this, any component in the entire chain that hypes the music, makes it sound edgy and insistent, is going to give you a headache. These are the nearfield facts of life. As for class D, I’m a big fan--but only because I did my homework (hours and hours of it) to find the few class D amps that are A. affordable for me; and B. said by at least some users as being "musical," or at least, pretty nice to appreciate music with. I ended up with 3 class Ds that sound pretty wonderful: A. Wyred 4 Sound ST-500: This 250 wpc amp is based on ICEPower, which some deride as not state-of-the-art. Too bad . . . it sounds great to me. B. Bel Cando 500S: Also 250 wpc based on ICEPower. Resolves a little better than the W4S, but truthfully, the W4S is more than resolving enough. C. Bel Canto 600M monoblocks: These 250 wpc monoblocks are based on the newer NCore technology. They sound rather amazing. Bel Canto is fairly expensive, even used. Wyre 4 Sound less so. But the prices will never get as low as the B&K, so it’s all kind of academic. PS: The types of music you listen to are sometimes recorded "hot" in the studio, which makes it even more important to avoide edgy, bright compoments in your stereo rig IMO. |
Four days now with the Shiit Vidar 2 and using the SYS passive source selector (can't really call it a preamp.) It would be exhausting to relate the variety of music I've thrown at it. Overall I'm really pleased. I find the amp quite warm, stuff like dynamic range, transients, imaging etc is very good. In a word... speaker control! Still evaluating but I'm confident I'll keep it.
@hboden, I'm keenly interested in DAC experience. I've dedicated an iPad mini gen 5 with Plexamp (player) as a kiosk accessing my FLAC library. Now, for comparison I've also run off my SSL 2+ audio interface connected to a M2 Mac mini, so whatever DAC circuit SSL uses. I feel like there is a subtle but worthwhile improvement, sort of like the very subtly more revealing you get between pedestrian and good cables. On forums the science guys claim DACs are mostly snake oil in contrast to tons of non-scientific anecdotal DAC praise.
My budget would allow something like Modi 5 or Fiio K11 etc, or even Mimir.
Apart from DAC, I would like some tone control and while I'm not sure I need it I would also like some gain capability. So , for example, I could do a Schiit Saga pre but I'd still need a Loki Mini+ for EQ. Mimir w/Forkbeard has a parametric but only 3 band and using an app instead of knobs, plus it's not DSP, just microprocessor. To further confuse things, Schitt has the Eitr 2, and the Shiit Buf claims 12db gain.
I just don't know where to go with all this stuff, where to start. I'm thinking maybe I should start with adding some gain first then see if bypassing the iPad DAC still appeals. And apparently to bypass the iPad DAC I'll need the Apple Lightning to USB 3 cable and a USB 3 to USB C cable to connect a USB C DAC. Sheesh! |
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