Practical tips for setting up your subwoofer(s)

Those of us without any bass management or LFE have to take a slightly different approach. Here is my experience adding a subwoofer.

Without any HPF to the mains a lower than normal sub LPF will integrate better with less overlap. Since there is already a slight latency with the use of the crossover filter I prefer not to add any more by using any additional DSP such as  PEQ adjustments.

I am lucky to have a dedicated listening room so can position the sub closer to the listening position than the mains are. In my case it's almost 2 feet closer as I have no way to adjust distances with the amplifier. 

I have tried many different crossover settings but always return to 45 hz as it blends well with my speakers and room. I have a second identical sub ordered, just awaiting the back ordered SB1000 Pro to finally ship. Here is my equipment list:

Marantz PM8006, Denon DNP2000NE, XLO interconnects, Elipson 24F, SB1000 Pro (2), some diffusion and absorption in a 21'x24' room.

@pennpencil 

Yes! Positioning the sub is critical

I wouldn't get caught up in that, especially for music. That's more applicable for ULF for movies. What if it's optimally in front of your door or an entry? It's unrealistic and a time killer. Unless you have a room 3D map of your low frequency acoustics, it's best to put them as near the front speakers as possible because you will be able to localize it and it will also help reduce the timing differences with the speakers. You'll have to make compromises one way or the other.

@davegood 

Those of us without any bass management or LFE have to take a slightly different approach.

Personally, I avoid bass management and LFE at all cost unless it's a single sub config. Music is in stereo and it's less dynamic and spacious to down-convert it to mono. I use high level or stereo RCA, measure it, use a digital EQ from a preamp and knock down any overlap. Most likely, the sub will have a crossover knob that's sufficient without needing EQ, like you having it at 45Hz. For movies, I do the same and send LFE to the mains. Bass management was a home theater compromise for consumers without full range speakers. But if you have subs connected to each speaker, you have full range and therefore don't need bass management.

I want to do a poll to see how many people who recommend the “sub crawl” method of placement have actually done it themselves.

While it sounds nice in theory…

I think the tendency with a new sub is to set it up for too much bass...and that is ok because after a while, you will just naturally dial it back.

While the sub crawl works, it is a pain.  It is definitely possible to get good sounding bass without dsp but you have to be willing work at it and you have to trust your ears...that they are happy with the sound.

I’ve had single subs...and now have dual subs.  I’ve had multiple brands and even though I have a dsp option to "optimize" the sound, I almost always end up "tuning by ear"....and not by using the sub crawl method.

It is pretty shocking how much moving a subwoofer just 6" changes the sound at the listening position.  And that is the method I’d suggest trying.  Put it in a location, mark the location with painters tape and just listen for a day or two.  Then move it a few inches...mark it....try that position and compare the sound.  Do this a half dozen times, more if you need to, and usually you will find a position that sounds pretty good.

Then, you can try tweaking phase, crossover, etc. to see how much better you can get the sound now that you have a good position.

In the end, because most rooms are so problematic, it will almost be 100% true that you can get better quality bass and get it easier with two subs...but that doesn’t mean you can’t get very satisfying bass with just one.

Finally, I would say that unless you know you have speakers that have an f3 below 60 hz and do so at a volume you like, start by crossing higher...maybe 70 or 80 hz as you can always tweak this once you find the best location.