@pinball101 That's a clever thought. I checked and it does read the same whichever way it is facing.
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pinball101"The simple test of accuracy of any level is to take a reading then rotate the level 180 degrees and compare that reading to the original reading. If it reads the same when rotated it is accurate." I might just get a digital inclinator the 0.1 degree shown was when the level was rotated 90 degrees. a down arrow is shown on the left side of the display. That must mean the viewed right corner is a 0.1 degrees high, so put the layers of tape I mentioned on the lower left side like pinball said, It should also show the same result after 180 degrees from there, bubble will look the same, but digital might show +0.1, and turn 180 degree show -0.1 confirming the arm board is very very slightly out of level, viewed from the opposite side, the arrow would appear on the right side, indicating it’s viewed right side is -0.1 degrees low. this one is a bit bigger and includes a bubble level. I’m guessing they pressed the ’hold’ to show -88.8. from where that was taken, rotated 180 degrees would it show +1.2?
A platter, if concave, you can put a small level on the outer edge, and rotate, watch as you rotate. I have had a few platters whereby I needed to remove and reseat on the spindle, sometimes tapping firmly to get them fully seated/flat/level to the surrounding plinth which you should check/level separately in several locations around the platter prior to checking the platter. If the armboard(s) are separate, it is more important that the armboard (thus bottom of arm post) and platter are level to each other like lewm said.
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Today the long-awaited Timestep M10-DP turned up. I mounted it in an unintended place (being a third rather than a second tonearm mount) so it needed a little work with an angle grinder. But now it works and I have six tonearms working. The NuVista Vinyl can handle five, so I have added a switch for the two MC cartridges that are content with the same loading (the other four are MI).
Currently: 1. Soundsmith Hyperion 2. Grado Statement3 3. London Decca Jubilee (the Reference needs to go for a rebuild, having developed a hum) 4. Benz Micro Ruby 3 mono 5. Ortofon Kontrapunkt C 6. Nagaoka MP-500 I seem to be working towards an all-MI setup. It would be easy to replace the Ruby 3 with a mono Soundsmith, but that last place? Either I slip in the Sussurro (but why?) or I need another moving iron manufacturer I don't own. I guess it could be an MP-700, but then what to use in place of the MP-500? |
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