Tube rolling in Hagerman Trumpet MC


I have been doing some tube rolling in the Trumpet MC and am trying to be a sure as I can that I don't substitute a tube that could cause a problem.

It looks like from my very poor reading of the schematics that the V1 12ax7's are for initial gain pre RIAA, the second pair V2 are phase splitter post RIAA, and the 12au7's V3 are driver/output/cathode follower (not sure about that last one as the circuit doe not look like a typical cathode follower circuit and even looks like anode follower?).  Any enlightenment here would be helpful.  This is because even tubes that are considered "drop in" substitutes are not actually identical on the manufacturer spec sheets.  For instance the 5418 has a slightly higher heater current than and au7 and there might be another parameter that is different (Vhk?).  Even the 7316 is slightly different.  And of course the 5751 has lower gain than a ax7 as well as other differences.  Many of the differences are still within spec, and given what I can see from the online schematic of the Trumpet MC, look like no problem, but I just want to make sure.  I have emailed Jim Hagerman and he has been helpful when I have, but I hate to keep bugging him with my questions, so I will bug you guys instead.

Thanks for you help and the bandwidth.

oceanica

@lewm 

chickenoregg, Regarding the E80CC, Jim Hagerman probably would not approve on the same grounds by which he did not approve of the FQ7, the excess heater current requirement. And the FQ7 is more like a 12AU7 than is the E80CC.  The fact that you got away with subbing the E80CC with a 12AU7, and I got away with subbing the FQ7 for the 12AU7 in my Quicksilver preamp (with audibly positive results) have no bearing on the question of the Trumpet.

Yes, I hadn't read back far enough in the thread to see that. Not that I needed to to know a manufacturer will always advise against any kind of risk that creates liability for them.

You asked about my statement, "Honestly, I think tube rolling is way over-rated and prone to expectation bias on the part of the listener." To which you responded, "I am genuinely curious to know what gear you rolled what tubes in to no or little effect?"

First, I did not and would not say there is NO effect, but I would say it has little effect, and here is what I mean when I say that:

There is no need to be defensive, it was a genuine question not an accusation. I have clients with certain pieces of gear that rolling tubes has zero effect on. Rare in my experience, but it does happen. Was curious if you also had had that experience so I could note it for future reference.

 (1) Tubes age; any beneficial effect you hear at first is probably not going to last forever for that reason. 

Different tubes age differently, some die a slow tedious death, others stay fully with you until one day they die in their seep. But also, let's be real here, most NOS tubes will sound great for thousands of hours. Many over 10,000 hours. And not through some miracle, but because they were designed to.  If the #1 reason you cannot hear a substantive difference from one tube to the next is old tubes, you should take better care of your kit. Also, a tube may lose gain over time, but it doesn't go from having personality to sounding generic, it just won't work as well.

(2) There is a lot of fraud these days in vacuum tube sales in that vendors know what audiophiles want and the market is replete with fake copies of TFK, Mullard, Amperex, etc, branded tubes.  That would deter me from making new purchases of rare NOS tubes for fear that they are copies. I do have a stash of all the named brands that I purchased NOS back in the 1970ss in their original boxes, mostly 12AX7, AT7, and AU7.  As well as 5687 and its congeners, and yadayada. I trust my stash but not some other guy’s recently purchased samples. 

With all due respect, this kind of exaggerated fear mongering is dangerous and frankly irresponsible. How is it that you are the bona fide expert on market conditions in 2025 when you cite the 1970s as the last time you were really engaged in the market as a buyer.  That was fifty some years ago. You even clearly state that your distrust (and thus behavior) is rooted in anxiety and fear, not in fact. The market is not in fact "replete with fake copies" nor is it an organized criminal conspiracy. 

I sell tubes, and in order t0 sell tubes, I buy tubes. Close to $1,000,000 worth over the past three years, and I buy everything from a single tube to a $50K+ collection. I have done and do business with a staggering large cross section of sellers. And I have been deliberately ripped off exactly one time. I can count the number of fake tubes I've come across on a single hand — and I have hundreds of thousands of tubes.

There are certainly those with a wayward moral compass and a casual relationship with truth— there isn't a market in the world that does't have that, but the idea that not getting ripped off is the exception is absurd. In a way, this kind of thinking and behavior is in part responsible for the increase tube prices, because it not only kills trust, it creates a market place where every buyer is a scared, nervous, often confused mess trying to navigate a world they don't really understand, so they jump at every noise and shadow they think might be the tube boogeyman coming for them, and because they don't trust anyone, they won't ask for help because they are afraid of exposing themselves as an easy mark. This leads to more returns, which means time and money. It also means sellers feel constantly accused and attacked, and then, often in misguided ways, try to find ways to protect themselves and their business in ways that just perpetuate the problem.

(3) My prior experience tube rolling suggested to me that the expensive rare brands, even authentic ones, do not always sound as good as some of the modern tubes made in the far East or in Eastern Europe, let alone do they sound any better.  I will not make any generalizations, but when I compared a slew of different NOS 12AT7s at the input of my Atma-sphere amplifiers, probably about 20 years ago, the best sounding without any doubt were tubes made in China and purchased from Billington in the UK.  Problem with them was a short lifespan. 

Unclear how having a 20 year old preference for cheap Chinese tubes supports your position that there is little effect in tube rolling. Sounds like you actually thought they were significantly different, in fact.

(4) Tubes depend upon the contact points between the pins and the tube socket.  Tube sockets do not always age well or maintain a tight fit on the pins.  This alone can cause the sensation that performance is fading.  Few of us pay attention to that and even fewer of us clean tube pins and tube sockets periodically to assure good contact. (I do pins with Q tips and sockets with tiny wire brushes made for the job,) When you pull one tube and replace it with another, you are per se cleaning the tube socket by friction and by the fact that some dirt comes out with the pins of the old tube. That is one cause of a false positive sense of achievement. 

I don't want to speak for everyone, but I think that is safe to assume that if you are reading or participating in this thread you know what a socket is. This also doesn't support your position that there is little effect in tube rolling. If your sockets are so old, dirty and  oxidized that they are impacting the sound quality of your kit so much that you think the most likely difference between a Telefunken and a Mullard tube is confirmation bias, you're doing it wrong.

(5) Expectation bias is a real thing and every one of us is susceptible to it.

Your preconceived notions about the state of the tube market is a text book example of expectation bias if there ever was one.

There may be those that convince themselves something is better when it's not because in some way for some reason they need to believe that to be true. But I can tell you with great certainty I don't get up and go to work everyday so I can play make believe with all of my tubes. 

Truth is, I don't have the time. I'm too busy making enough fake tubes to keep the market flooded with them. And when I'm not doing that, I'm counting and sorting my dirty tube blood money into nicely manicured G-Stacks, which I have to be sure to have finished before our daily tube seller global conspiracy scrum. If I am lucky, that meeting will break early and I'll have hour or two to really rip some folks off before dinner. Nothing like a few nicely executed pre-dinner cons to get my appetite worked up.

 

 

 

 

I don't sell Valves, I have not made One Penny from my interest in a Valve of any type. 

My learning about Valves has been attained through a friend, who is in possession of a two generation collection of Valves and a calibrated AVO test machine. 

My Valve Purchasing methods are formed around what my friend has taught me about Valve purchases, relating to both Vintage and New Stock, which is Caveat Emptor is one's best friend, and post purchase testing is part of this. 

My Two Methods of Purchasing Tubes are both used when required, and are both successful. Even though in the grand scale my purchases are not even a noticeable scratch on the Ssurface of Valve Sales. 

Purchase Method 1, Look Far and Wide for a Vintage Tube of Interest, where it is found at a price that is difficult to refuse. Have a haggle to get a more attractive purchase price. Make the Payment, receive the Tube and be done with it. A punt purchase is just that, not all horses are to get over the first hurdle. Testing will reveal how well I did. 

Purchase Method 2, Assess a Valve (usually a matched pair), checking through contacting the Vendor (recorded contact history is important) that the Valves both have the same Getters and Structural Parts. Similar Ref No's helps, and learn which machine Test Results are taken from.

A price is agreed on under the condition, if the Valve is proven through Testing on a AVO at my end to not have fault and close equivalent measurements to those reported by the Vendor. The Valves are retained, if differences are discovered that do not reflect the supplied info, the Valves are returned at my cost, and a full refund is given.

Post purchase testing has revealed the need for Valves to be returned. My experiences with a Vendor are varied, a few FULLY accommodate the sale agreement, others can be very very ugly, and not embracing following their agreement to support the conditions of a sale. 

More importantly 'WHO', as a Typical Purchaser of Valves, are able to have the Purchase Tested when received, to learn what has been purchased, a Glass Form with Pins is far removed from what is really important. 

The typical purchaser is left with their purchasing of Valves being 'Punts'. Only the Vendor is supplying the report on the Valve condition. The Purchaser is facing the outcome that the Valve can effect their equipments circuit in an unknown / unwanted way.

As stated, cheap Valve circuits are a good way to learn what is possible with poor quality valves in the circuit, certainly not to be used on expensive circuits. 

Egg, you asked for my reasons. You got them. I did not know you were a tube dealer, and I certainly would not accuse you personally of fraudulent activity. You probably know enough about the minutiae of distinguishing the real from the fake to protect your customers a priori. I know several completely reputable tube sellers, and I trust them all. I was thinking of eBay sellers unknown to me, because I am not versed in the art of tube identification. The fakery as I understand it is done in factories in the far east and Eastern Europe, not by sellers. Anyway, I have all the tubes I’ll ever need. Sorry to have stepped on your toes.

@lewm 

I appreciate your response more than you might now. 

As a seller I can’t go an hour without bumping into some post or response somewhere detailing what a scumbag, lowlife, POS I am just by nature of having chosen to do something I love and am passionate about — help people make their lives better by making their music better. I hate the chasm of distrust that exists between tube sellers and buyers. I hated it when I was a buyer, and I hate it even more as a seller. I hate it so much that a few years ago I invested my entire life savings in an effort to change it. 

Over the past two years, I have sent out on audition over $1,500,000 of tubes in unsecured boxes to complete strangers, people I have never done a single deal with or ever even encountered before sending them a box filled with my life savings in the form of the rarest, finest tubes on the planet. I do not require an upfront purchase, I do not require a deposit, I do not even take a credit card number just in case. I trust you so that you will, in turn, trust me. The only way I figured I could change the market was by addressing what was missing; trust, and without trust there is no respect. And without those two things, look where it leaves us.

So, I started trusting people. And you know what? It’s worked. In that two years, I have never, not once, had a single tube broken, stolen, damaged, lost or even come home a day later than was agreed. When we trust each other, good things happen. We are mostly good people, great people in a great community. I just wish that we would behave like that instead of perpetuating the horror that is the tension between buyers and sellers of tubes. It doesn’t have to be like that. In fact, this should be fun, it is meant to be fun — that’s why it’s a hobby for so many.

I am sorry if in my passion and sensitivity I have come off as gruff or contentious. But this is an all-important issue to me that I find myself becoming more and more of an activist of in trying to combat and change something I think and know can be so much better.

You clearly have a deep knowledge of tubes and electronics that has already been of value to me. I hope that we may both continue to learn from and help each other.

And please know I appreciate the candid dialogue we’ve shared.

Brien

Thanks for your sentiments. I think I got sour about anonymous sellers after I bought a pair of 6900s off eBay that proved to be completely worn out though probably authentic. The seller represented them as mint. But that’s not an example of fakery. Mostly I’ve read the stories on various internet fora; you probably know more about it than I do.

In the last hour I’ve been thinking more on the issue of tube rolling. I remembered that my most extensive experience is with 6SN7s. There definitely are tremendous differences among different NOS brands. For example I love KenRad 6SN7GTs but they are very microphonic. Possibly that property even contributes subtly to their realistic sonics. Anyway I finally had to ditch them as the gain stage in my Atma MP1 preamp because of the ringing, in favor of my second choice Brimars. They’re more pedestrian sounding but keep quiet. So maybe I’m not such a tube rolling nihilist as I claimed to be. (I’ve tried many other NOS brands in the MP1.)