School me on surge suppression/power conditioning

The Siemens or Eaton (cheaper) whole house, but it takes up two breaker slots as I recall. Then point of use, like the SurgeX which you have. Electricity is agnostic. If you are concerned about surge protection only. I'm not a fan of "power conditioners" anyway- they all affect the sound-the question is always whether it seems like an improvement. 

You don't need to throw crazy money at this, given what you have. But I don't know whether you can DIY under code in your location. That is something you should check. I always use an electrician, but that's me. 

Good luck,

PS: there is a famous old "millionaires" trailer park that sits right on the lake in downtown Austin, old hippies, used to be cheap, and some folks have cool Airstreams and other retro MH/trailers/whatever. I could see that if you can handle a confined living space. 

whart, thankfully i have a triplewide thats almost 1900 sq.ft. but its still a mh, so built like one. Id love a real house but in north idaho you have to pretty much make 1/4 million or more unless you want to live in town in a massive development, which i dont which is why I moved here, but too late and could only afford a mh on 5 acres. Code doesn't keep homeowners from doing their own work here as long as its still to code. My meter and main breakers to the outbuildings are on a post in the middle of our circle driveway, so i should have room in there since theres only 3 220 breakers for the house, shop, pump house. Just need to find a surge suppressor that can be exposed to the elements sonce its outdoors 

The whole house units I mentioned both attach to the outside of the service panel. The Eaton used to be considerably cheaper than the Siemens, which is now like 400 plus bucks (I replaced my Eaton with the Siemens when we installed a whole house back up generator). I don't think it is that big a deal to wire if you know what you are doing and are comfortable doing it. You should still use your Surge X on anything critical, like hi-fi. I avoided the point of use surge protectors by running a big-assed Iso Transformer that is dedicated to the system- and it has a sacrificial surge board in it. Good luck, some of this stuff is just basic electrical, not "audiophile" and I'm a hard core old school audiophile from way back--so, not a naysayer on fancy equipment. 

. So no room left in the inside breaker panel with it full of tandems and quads already. Thinking number #1 is a panel mounted surge suppression at the outside meter/mains shut-off to the 3 buildings.

@budgetav 

A whole house SPD (Surge Protective Device) is your first line of defense against high voltage transients damage. To protect your home you need a Type 2 SPD installed at the electrical panel in your triple wide MH. 

FYI, read the warranty for the type 2 SPD you are looking at buying. You will find it requires the SPD be installed by a Licensed Electrician. You will want to hire an electrician to check out the grounding for the panel in the  triple wide MH to make sure it meets Code. 

The panel in the  triple wide MH is a sub panel that is fed from the main electrical service on the pole. By Code the sub panel in the MH should be feed with 4 wires.

Two Hot ungrounded conductors, (240Vac Hot to Hot).

One Grounded Neutral Conductor. (Connected to Earth at the pole. Hopefully to two minimum 5/8" X 8ft ground rods, hopefully.) 

One Equipment Grounding Conductor. (There should be a separate ground bar for all the safety equipment grounding wires to connect to. No white neutral conductors connected to the equipment ground bar.

The neutral bar should be insulated from the metal enclosure of the panel. All white insulated conductors, wires, connect to the neutral bar.

Because of your situation where the main electrical service is located outside, detached, from the MH structure I would recommend you have an Electrician install an Auxiliary Grounding Electrode (NEC 250.54) , at least two 5/8" X 8ft ground rods connected together and a bare #4 solid copper wire extended to the equipment ground bar in the electrical panel. (NEC electrical code only requires a #6 awg copper ground wire. I would recommend a #4 awg copper wire.  Per NEC code the two rods must be a bare minimum of 6ft apart from one another.  That is too close. Have the electrician drive them at least 8ft apart. 10ft or 12ft is better yet.

FYI, 2020 NEC 250.32 (A) requires the Earth Grounding Electrode connection. Not sure when, year, your electrical service was installed. If not required back then it is Grandfathered  in. Have it installed anyway... Money well spent.

Why is the Mother Earth connection Electrode important, needed. Mainly for lightning protection. in the event of a nearby lightning strike in the event the high voltage lightning transient enters on the electrical panel you want the high voltage lightning transient diverted to mother earth quickly in the shortest lowest resistive path as possible. (Grounds rods should be driven outdoors from where the panel is located in the MH. I would recommend at least 3ft out from the MH skirting. Better chance of rain moisture in the earth to ground rod. Better conductivity.)

When you can afford it, I would recommend you install another Type 2 SPD at the main electrical service panel at the pole. The service neutral conductor is connected to mother earth there. Again you want the high voltage lightning transient diverted to mother Earth as quickly as possible.

Internet Provider.

Wire or Fiber? If wire make sure the outdoors Grounding Block is connected to the Grounding Electrode System for the MH. This is a must.  How far is the grounding block from where the ground rods will be driven in the earth?

As for two breaker spaces, (2 pole breaker), in the MH electrical panel. The electrician will know how to address that.

IMO, all of the above should be done. A Type 3 point of use Surge protector will protect better. Hopefully any high voltage transient surges will be taken care of before it reaches the Type 3 point of use protector. 

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@jea48 thanks for all of that. I can diy and am comfortable doing basic electrical but that might be better left to someone that understands it better. I'll probably end up calling an electrician in the spring after the thaw. I need to panel in my shop upgraded anyway since theres no room there either and i need more 220 breaker room for a compressor and a heatpump.

Im in an area that really had no code up until recently so everything would have been done by the national code in 99 when it was put in