Realism in instruments how to achieve it?


Hi all,

Based on the recommendations of this forum I added a BAT VK3i Preamp to my system a few months ago and it lifted my whole system, before that I was going from SMSL RAW MDA1 DAC directly to Apollon Purifi Amp, now the BAT is in between and it gave me that warmth and analog sound I was looking for. Frank Sinatra, Elvis, Nat King Cole all sound real and "In the Room" feeling. On the analog side which I don't use as often I added a Lector tube phono preamp and it made a massive impact more than on the digital side. The thing I noticed on the digital side is that voices mainly sound so real more than instruments which have body and textures but not yet reaches that realism I feel from hearing voices mainly and when I play a record instruments are just more live and real. Guitars specifically sound much better with the BAT preamp in the signal but other instruments like in classical symphonies are not quite there yet.

Is it the speakers that gives that realism to instruments?

I cycle between Totem Arro and Sonus Faber Grand Piano Home speakers. Also, have a JBL 530 in storage but needs a speaker stand.

Two upgrade path I thought of: Push pull power tube amp or a single ended amp. The issue that my setup is in a modest bedroom and heat is a concern. Another thing I thought to add is a R2R DAC with a tube buffer like the upcoming Fiio Warmer Dac.

Another upgrade I considered is going for British bookshelf speakers like Spendor, Harbeth, Graham Audio.

What do you think is that realism in instruments can be achieved more with speakers or with a tube amp in the chain? should I just be pleased with what I have and ignore upgrades for now?

Thanks and sorry for the long post.

sheri2022

New update: I just received yesterday SVS 3000 micro to replace my elac1010. Great upgrade that was not in my thought but actually it changed the system for the better.

The Elac already showed me what I was missing in the new setup and this SVS is a much better subwoofer. It’s controlled, precise and doesn’t boom or localize as the Elac. Yesterday it was not optimal but today with the SVS app and tweaking to multiple genres I reached what I was looking for, a bass that is part of the music and not boomy or over the top.

To my surprise adding a good subwoofer didn’t only add bass, my system now is not bright, clear separation, not congested. The thing I mentioned in my first post about Nat King Cole and Elvis and how real they sound after adding the BAT preamp, now surprisingly they sound a bit better not sure why maybe the bass extended frequency and relieved the speakers from extra work maybe I don’t notice treble as before with that extension. I listened to the new AP Genesis SACD releases for the third or fourth time and I’m shocked how better they sound now I wasn’t impressed the last time I listened to A Trick of the Tail, Last time I felt it was a bit congested with some glare, now nothing of that!

I guess next upgrade will be speakers, probably one of Harbeth or Spendor offerings.

Nice!   Good choice!    I read that sub provides a lot of flexibility for integration with it’s remote app that you can use at actual  listening position where it matters to tweak the sound. 

@sheri2022 - congrats! You’re making wise decisions.

Wishing you the best on your sonic journey. 

@sheri2022 - the greatest gain to sound realism at any point of your audio journey is in establishing a good grounding solution for your system, one that may well exceed the gain of any component upgrade. 

The reason why I asked if you lived in an apartment or a house is because there is little that will outperform a well grounded copper rod in a garden, but even if you don’t have access to garden earthing, there are affordable solutions which will bring you 70/75 percent of the way there. 

There are many sites online that will explain what it’s about, but it basically boils down to running conductive wire from ground post, or available chassis screw or ground leg of RCA/XLR/USB port on each component chassis to a central point, where the large and small electrical vibrations killing sound quality and resolution in both analogue and digital systems are drained and put away.

The vital issue of note is that regardless of solution you finally select, your grounding route is of utmost importance. Grounding works best when the ground path follows the signal path as closely as possible. The traditional method was to star ground all components to the preamp, since this was the one component all the others typically sent their signal to. Now, with systems comprising a turntable, CD transport, and streamer at most, and more typically just a digital front end of streaming, that same star grounding no longer applies. While a Tri-star ground path will work for the three different sources above, a system dedicated to pure digital streaming runs a very different ground path.

Synergistic Research have showcased their grounding solutions for years now, ahead of many other big companies now jumping on the bandwagon, but their heavy-handed marketing push for star-grounding in the ultimate sense, where every single component or box had to have their own dedicated ground cable wired to their central ground box, passive on the low end, and fully active for their range topping models. This has had the unfortunate effect of many audiophiles spending household quantities of money on a rats nest of ground cabling…..in the worse kind of configuration for a digital system. 

With digital streaming, there is only one signal path, which logically implies a daisy chained ground path. 

Linear power supplies with ground posts are wired to the respective component they power, but the ground path basically follows the signal chain from modem to router, router to switch, switch to streamer or server, streamer to DAC, and DAC to pre. For inexplicable reasons, the rule of following the signal path does not include the amplifier, the inclusion of which results in poorer grounding.

So in the case of your apartment, the amp, preamp (with daisy chain before it) and power distributor are finally wired separately to the ground arm of a regular power plug, which then gets plugged into a regular power socket.

If you’ve been patient enough to read to this point, know that without need to make audiophile grade purchases of any sort, you can simply test the effectiveness of this particular grounding solution I’ve detailed with entirely off the shelf electrical supplies. It will cost the tiniest fraction of the cheapest component you can find, to a gain in realism that might well surpass anything you have bought to date.

Do excuse my lengthy post, I hope you or anyone else found it helpful : )

In friendship - kevin