Cary Audio CAD-280SA V12R



Anyone heard one of these? from R to I series upgrade? I'm looking for an amp
that sounds great, but able to use 6L6s - KT90s.  Single Ended or Push-Pull.
This seems to be pretty easy to swap drivers for signature change, currently
has EL34 valves, Red Rubies? stockers. 
FR from 20hz - 23KHZ, really great specs, fully balanced.
Anyone know about these V12s
oldhvymec

Hello. My 1/2amp fb fuse blows instantly on my Right side. Everything smells and looks clean under the hood. Is there anything I should be looking for specifically that would lead to this current issue? Everything is stock/original.

Hello. My 1/2amp fb fuse blows instantly on my Right side. Everything smells and looks clean under the hood. Is there anything I should be looking for specifically that would lead to this current issue? Everything is stock/original.

@jngrausr is yours the 100-120v or 220-240v version V12R?

My former V12R was the 120v version, and ended up finding out the manual was later updated and I moved from a 4v to 5 volt SLOW BLOW. Found out why though, there was a bad hexfred diode from a former upgrade, had to be found and replaced. There can be a cause if it keep blowing fuses.  1) is an EL34 output tube going bad, 2) is the power transformer and/or rectifier going bad?

BEFORE replacing the fuse and just trying again randomly, it's best to troubleshoot in steps.  

Try this procedure carefully:

  1. Remove all tubes, insert a correct new fuse, and power up.

    • If the fuse does not blow, the power transformer and rectifier are likely fine.

    • If it does blow, the issue is in the power transformer or primary circuit.

  2. Reinstall rectifier and driver tubes only — test again.

  3. Add output tubes one at a time while monitoring fuse and bias current

Best NOT to power back up quickly after each test.Apparently if the main power caps are not discharged a little and you power it back up fast after a test, that alone  can blow a fuse. Take your time with each step above. The next owner who acquired my V12R had to replace the main (large) power transformer after playing the amp super hard for many hours on some large demanding electrostatic speakers.  Best to go through the checks, or find a tech to help if not sure.  Good Luck.  

 

 

 

Hello. Thank you so much for the guidance and encouragement. It is the U.S. 100-120v. I see that you have provided a great deal of info on this amp over the years. I will peruse. 

Will report back if I dont electrocute myself.

To @jngrausr the V12R is a unique amplifier and I regret selling mine.  A really nice gentlemen bought it from me, and he tried with this his friends' speakers too. A few others on this forum have explored running the amp with fewer tubes as well, removing all the tubes except a few pairs on each side. 

Fuses, and Biasing:

My local 50yr in business tech repair friend helped me, and we had the former amplifier engineer at Cary Audio on calls together a few times to address fuse-blow issues once, and biasing.  Two things came about.  

Bias, per side:

Bias at 260-280ma per side [as stated in the old non-updated manual] was deemed as being "too high, and unnecessarily burning up the EL34 tubes prematurely." 

Fix: back the bias down to a low of 200ma to a high of 230ma per side. "no need to go higher" according to my local tech friend.  Sounds good in this range, saves your EL34 tubes. 

Fuses:

The Cary tech at that time had restored a few V12Rs that came in on trade, and stated if the EL34 tubes are all good, the power transformers are good, then running a 5am slow blow fuse was okay, and the original manual use to show 4amp IIRC. 

Procedure:

If you can try the procedure above, and rule out the transformers are okay, and don't blow the as a result of transformer deterioration, next is to test the tubes. That amplifier made me come close to buying my own tube tester rig and instead I'd rely on my local tech to test tubes for me. The entire time I owned my V12R, I ran the same EL34 tubes over several years.  Maybe reach out to a local shop/tech, and have all your EL34 tubes and little input tubes tested first, if you are not sure. 

Good Luck.