I used my McIntosh Stereo/Mono switch for years, and I thought it was ’good enough’,
I learned here that a True Mono cartridge is better, tried it, and discovered it is without a doubt true, depending on the LP content and condition, it can make a little/lot/whole lotta difference. Less noise combined with improved definition of individual instruments make a far more involving experience.
Everyone who listens here easily hears the betterment. Like me, they previously thought their Mono Mode was ’good enough’. You owe it to yourself to hear it for yourself.
IF you get into Jazz, so many great musicians/singers were active in the late 40’s, early 50s, when Mono recording techniques were quite advanced, then both Mono and Stereo were made for a few years of transition, then Stereo, now new Mono’s, that’s not for me, but for some.
I grab a few Oscar Peterson, Miles, and within seconds simply change to ’C’ on my SUT to play a Mono LP in the middle of a listening session with an AT33PTG Mono boron/line contact, then back to B for my AT160ML MM with beryllium/microline tracking at 1.25; then perhaps use A for MC AT33PTG/II boron/microline tracking at 2.0g, or perhaps my Sumiko Talisman s MC with sapphire tube/van den hul. I change tone arm selection and different gain/impedance with face mounted selectors on the SUT I so luckily chose. That is a big part of my flexibility.
I listened for many years with one favored cartridge and Stereo/Mono mode switch, it was darn good, but if going to invest a decent amount of money, you can set yourself up to experience readily apparent differences.
I got here with some dumb luck, but now that you are smart enough to ask in advance, think long and hard, the potential to add a second arm is fundamental.