which audiophile fuse for the audiolab 6000 cdt ????

I tried this tweak using Synergistic Research pink fuse on my power amp and I can say DONT even bother! there was nothing I head as improvement or worst decrement. nothing. Even Pass does not subscribe to this belief

However, when i use this as a Fuse on the Maggie LRS, then i would dare say there was a noticeable improvement, the bass was more pronounce and a slightly clearer top end. At least, my $$S fuse has found a home. 

.YMMV as your gear may have synergy with fuses. at least mine does not

1971gto455ho, well we can't all agree on the same thing on this forum. ;)

 

and you think it's laughable, well you'd really laugh when you see my receipt for the acme fuse ! ;)

 

but yes i want to buy another fuse. and i do hear a difference, ;)

 

joeycastillo, thanks immensely for your words and telling of your experiences. :)

 

and now for a plot twist...

anyway, i'm one of the masses to have picked up a used  6000cdt.

 

and checking, the fuse in it is a T1L 250V.

i've had no problems with it. but that's obviously not the value audiolab mentions in the manual or on the back of the player. no idea if the seller changed things. maybe ?

but this value has worked with zero issues. hmm..

is this fuse better ?

 

anyway when i tried to get a few T1AL 250V from the ebay seller.

 

they initially sent a few T1A 250V. i contacted them and mentioned the wrong fuse value was sent.

 

and i got a reply from them that the T1A 250V was actually better and also offered broader coverage. don't know if i can trust that. but knowing nothing about fuses.

 

but yeah they did send the fuses i  wanted after telling them of their error.

 

anyway this has been quite the adventure. the power of fuses...

 

and again thanks everyone for the replies. :)

 

@deluxe 

Here ya go:

Breakdown of the Fuse Code:

• T = Time-delay (slow blow)

  • This means it's designed to tolerate temporary current surges (like those at power-on), and only blow if the overcurrent persists.

• 1A = Rated current of 1 ampere

• L = Low breaking capacity (also known as low interrupting rating)

  • Suitable for circuits where a high fault current is not expected.

• 250V = Maximum voltage rating is 250 volts

Regards,

barts

thank you barts, i’m going to have to try to absorb this info.

 

*gulp* ;)

 

but i don't think i've seen audiophile fuses for the size i need in either a T1L 250v nor the "infamous" T1AL 250V.

 

oh well being an audiophile is never easy. again barts, thanks for the wave of knowledge.

So

what do you hear with an audiophile fuse in the 6000cdt? When are we going to get the updates.