I am so confused and I hope I can get some clarity and good advice in picking my next turntable.
At this time I can afford (wife decided budget...) to spend up to $2.5K.
I am using a Parasound ZC ZPhonoXRM (MM/MC) phono preamp, Parasound A51 biamping B&W 802 Nautilus.
On the new market I am lookng at Rega 6 (Ania MC), MoFi Ultradeck (MC?), Music Hall mmf 7.3
I am listening to almost evrything but I want to start focusing on Jazz, Blues, Irish music, Southern rock (Lynyrd Skynrd, Creedance Clearwater Revival) and some classical as well.
My focus is on soundstage, vocals and details with a warm sound.
Please let me know your thoughts on my choices and feel free to suggest anything else you think it could work, even if it is used.
One more question: why all the above turntable do not allow removable shells? I would like to experiment and try different cartridges like I was doing when I was a teenager...
Thank you for reading the post.
I was a long time Thorens user and wanted to upgrade to something new. I also was sold on the suspended chassis design.
So I went searching for and found a Thorens TD1500 which is the newly designed update of the classic TD160. Fully manual of course (with a lift) and it sounds absolutely fantastic. Nice clarity, wide soundstage, etc. I got it new in open box for $2,400 on this site. It came with a premounted Ortofon 2M Bronze MM cartridge.
It has removable headshell and I am already looking at some cartridge swaps just for fun, and bought a couple of Ortofon headshells for that occassion.
If you would rather have direct drive there is also a Thorens TD403 for sale at Audiogon at under $1,400 new with 2M Blue on it. Another option.
@dynamiclinearityOK I will comment on VPI arms. There are two types. The type you are thinking of is called a unipivot arm. I had those on my Prime, one was carbon that came with the turntable and I bought a second one made of metal. These puppies are quite pricey compared to headshells. The other type of arm that VPI makes is a double gimbal that has been dubbed the Fat Boy for some reason. It is also carbon and it is the type used on my HW-40. This arm is not easily removed, but compensates by being a remarkably excellent arm.
Hifi Heaven is advertising a Thorens model 1600 for $3K from $4K which is probably as good as it gets for that price range. I have a friend who has one & it seems to well made & sounds great!
Removable Headshell, small collection of alternate cartridges, done properly!
You were on the right track, don’t let ’good/better/best theory dissuade you. If avoidance of potential problems was the rule, we would all be listening to Direct Drive Linear Tracking with P Mount Cartridges with captive phono cables.
Theoretical ’better’ takes away exactly what you want, alternate cartridges ready to enjoy. Just make sure every connection is done right, keep your options, learn and get good/quick at mount/align/adjustments. Don’t fool yourself into thinking you will occasionally change fixed mount cartridges, Based on nearly 50 years of involvement with Vinyl, I would bet money once you get a darn good cartridge mounted, your not readily changing it.
I highly prefer and recommend removable over fixed mount, combined with the few inexpensive tools and skills needed. The cartridge differences: various stylus shapes/cantilever material is far more important than removable/fixed connection. I’ve recently replaced two ’fixed’ arms with ’removable’,
from this
to this
I had to repair both side arms, but it was worth it for the freedom gained. I couldn’t be happier, and my cartridges reveal their differences.
Getting arm height adjusted for VTA and Rotation of arm tube or rotation of headshell fitting, rotation of azimuth adjustable headshell on it’s neck, or dreaded shims in fixed arms for correct Azimuth is very important, that is what I liked about the Technics 1500 model I came across that is new and fits your budget, leaving you some money for a better cartridge.
That 1500’s Auto lift at end of play (defeatable) is wonderful. I need to get my AT auto lift gizmo set for the replacement arm, I’ve been lazy. It’s for the right side arm, was working for the 12.5" long arm in the top photo; it’s in the bottom photo, but not adjusted correctly yet.
however, I hadn't noticed, the arm lift/lower seems to be a stubby thing, not smooth evidently, as per a member who tried one:
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